How to Install Aftermarket Gauges on Toyota Celica

The gauges I used are AutoGage’s mechanical 3-gauge cluster set. They are 2 1/16” in diameter. I suggest that only the 2 1/16” gauges are used because there is a lack of space in the center cluster. The cosmetics of the gauges don’t matter (white face, black face, chrome trim, black trim). The installation process will take approximately a whole day (at most, two days). One day can be used to make the Plexiglas panel and the other day can be used to install the gauges and fittings.

Tools needed:

• Dremel
• Dremel reinforced cutting wheel
• Dremel sander
• Sandpaper
• Wrench set
• Ratchet set

Materials:

• AutoGage or AutoMeter mechanical gauges
• Acrylic or Plexiglas sheet (about ? mm thin)
• Metric adapter set (ex. Sunpro by Actron Metric Adapter Kit #CP7573)

I suggest reading the instructions that came with the gauges first. This is just a write-up by some kid who lost his instructions the very first day, and had to guess everything out.

Step 1: Cutting the gauge panel.
This is a relatively simple step. All you have to do is print out the pattern below, trace it onto the Plexiglas or acrylic sheet, and cut it with the Dremel.

Use the gauge panel that came with the gauges to trace the circles. Make sure all the gauges can fit snug into each hole. They need to be snug enough not to fall out and loose enough to be pushed in easily. Use the Dremel sander and sandpaper to smooth out any rough edges. If the panel doesn’t fit properly, do what you can to make it fit. Cut slits, sand away, etc.

Step 2: Fitting the gauge panel.
This is also a relatively simple step. Remove the center console trim by first removing the shifter trim and unscrewing two screws at the base of the center console trim. There are five tabs that hold the center console trim in place (3 on top, 2 on each side). The tabs on the gauge panel will fit into 2 crevasses under the bottom two screws of the radio assembly. They should fit snuggly. Otherwise, make them fit snuggly.

Step 3: Installing the gauge lines.
You do not have to drill another hole in the firewall. THERE SHOULD BE NO DRILLING INVOLVED! Under the dash above the steering column there is a hole already. A brass fitting conceals it. Stick your finger behind the brass fitting, and you will feel a hole. The hole leads to the engine bay where it resides under the ignition module. Snake the nylon oil and copper temperature lines to this hole. Make sure that you are able to step on the accelerator pedal without the lines interfering.

Step 4: Installing the gauges.
This step is explained in the instructions. I’m only going to go over some key points.

• Put the gauges into the gauge panel first. It may be a bit tricky to get the wiring and hosing done, but it’s possible
• Do not make sharp bends with the nylon or copper tubing.
• The factory oil sensor is 27mm. If you have a 27mm socket, use it. Otherwise, be careful not to break the sensor off.
• Be sure to tighten all bushings on the oil line before starting the car.
• The water temperature sensor fitting isn’t included in the kit. You’ll have to have one custom-made. I placed mine on the water outlet housing where Toyota installed two 17mm plugs. I just removed one of the 17mm plugs, and place my temperature probe there. You can also design a T-fitting for the upper radiator hose.
• When wiring the light for the water temperature sensor, reverse the polarities. That means, hook the power wire on the gauge to a ground wire on the car and the ground wire on the gauge to a power wire on the car. This is because the copper tubing on the water temperature line acts like a ground. If you don’t do this, expect blowing a 15A fuse.
• The voltmeter is hooked up to my cigarette lighter.
• Lighting wiring in my car as follows:
• One +/- hooked up to the cigarette lighter light.
• 2 +/- hooked up to the ashtray light.

Step 5: Double check.
Check to see that all lines are secure and fitted. Make sure there are no exposed electrical wires. Once you are sure, it’s time to fit the gauge panel into the dash. The two tabs will rest between the bottom two radio screws and above the center console trim tabs. It will be tricky to secure the gauge panel there, so if problems arise, use either some school glue or some tape (for temporary purposes). You won’t need to use tape or glue, but if you do, experiment at your own risk. The gauge panel should hold in place once the center console trim is fastened. If not, then check to see if the Plexiglas or acrylic is too thick. Other than that, you're done. Enjoy knowing how your engine behaves. Don't get too distracted.