“Due to popular demand, I have devised instructions on how to make your own inexpensive ‘cool air intake’ from items you can find at your local home improvement store and auto store. I’d like to personally thank ‘The SpoonKing’ for giving me this idea. He, too, deserves credit. Thank you, SpoonKing.”
- Henry
The intake instructions were designed for 5S-FE engines. The test car was Henry's 1991 Celica GT Coupe. The 94+ Celica models with the 5S-FE can use these instructions, but be sure to re-measure the sizings
Materials:
1. 2” diameter PVC piping
2. 2 90° PVC elbow 2” in diameter (female/male) (part# C4807-2)
3. 1 90° PVC long turn elbow 2” in diameter (female/female) (part# C4807-LT)
Note: “Male” on the elbow means there is no flange. “Female” means there is a flange that connects a PVC pipe to another PVC pipe.
4. 1 flexible drain coupling (a.k.a. rubber plumbing nipple), 2” to 2” (part# P1056-22)
5. PVC cement (I used the Heavy Duty PVC cement)
6. PVC saw (optional)
7. 1 universal K&N cone-style filter. Be sure to get one with a 2?” nipple flange and must be no longer than 7” in length.
8. Dupli-Color Engine Paint (or any kind of paint that will withstand engine bay heat)
9. Heat reflecting wrapping (recommended)
Tools:
1. A Dremel tool w/ bits
2. Ratchet set
3. Drill
NOTE: PVC is a form of plastic. Under the conditions in the engine bay, it will not melt. Instead, it will heat up fairly quickly. Therefore, it is not only wise but recommended that heat-deflecting paint is used and/or heat reflecting wrap. If you are still skeptical about the intake melting, let me [Henry] tell you something. I live in Texas where the summers are extremely hot with temperatures that reach 100+°F. To make it worse, I drive a black car. My intake is still intact.
Table of Contents:
Step 1: Getting the materials.
Step 2: Putting the simple stuff together first.
Step 3: Cutting and sizing.
Step 4: Removing the factory intake.
Step 5: Removing stuff to get the intake in.
Step 6: Testing placement and size of the new intake.
Step 7: Making the hole for the air temperature sensor.
Step 8: Putting the intake together and painting it.
Step 9: Finishing up.
Step 1: “Let’s go shopping.” (Getting the materials):
Items 1-6 can be purchased at a home improvement store (i.e. Home Depot, Lowe’s). Look for them in the plumbing section. Items 7-9 can be purchased at an automotive store (i.e. AutoZone). The K&N filter will have to be special ordered since many auto stores do not have universals on the shelves. It is very important that the filter you order is no longer than 7 inches in length and must have a 2.5-inch nipple. They should have a K&N catalog you can look at. The filter you are looking for is in the “universal” section of the catalog.
NOTE: You have the option of using 3-inch PVC piping like I opted to use. If you decide to use 3 inch piping, all the PVC bends must be 3 inches as well. The plumbing nipple used must be a “3-inch to 2-inch” style. One of the following K&N filters will suffice if you plan on using 3-inch PVC piping:
a. Part# RU-2710 w/ rubber end, 6?” in length
b. Part# RC-2710 w/ chrome end, 6?” in length (this is the one I used)
c. Part# RU-3550 w/ rubber end, 5?” in length
d. Part# RU-3130 w/ rubber end, 7” in length (this is the one I recommend)
WARNING: If you use 3-inch PVC piping, the fuse box must be relocated to where the OEM air box/filter housing used to be. Relocation is simply done by moving and/or twisting the box into its place. DO NOT CUT ANY WIRING!!! If you plan on relocating the fusebox, be sure to fasten or brace it to something. If you do not, it will get banged around in the space provided.
Step 2: “No, it’s not time to cut stuff.” (Putting the simple stuff together first):
Items needed in this step:
· 2 90° PVC elbows 2” in diameter (female/male) (item #2)
· Rubber plumbing nipple (2” to 2”) (item #4)
· K&N filter (item #7)
Take a female/male PVC elbow (item #2) and the plumbing nipple (item #4) and connect the nipple to the male end of the PVC elbow. Be sure to unscrew the clamp on the nipple first. It will make things a lot easier. This assembly connects to the throttle body.
Take the other female/male PVC elbow (item #2) and the K&N filter (item #7) and connect the filter to the male end of the PVC elbow. Unscrew the clamp here, as well, to make the job easier. Do not tighten the filter on yet. You will have to remove the filter to paint it in a later step. This is just for testing purposes. Also, a very important note, keep the filter assembly in a place free of dirt; store it in the plastic wrapping it came with. It will be a while during the procedure before it is used again.
Step 3: “This is where shop class is going to pay off.” (Cutting and sizing):
Items needed in this step:
· 2-inch diameter PVC piping (item #1)
· PVC saw (item #6)
Tools needed in this step:
· Dremel
NOTE: If you have a Dremel tool, you may use that. A PVC saw will cut the piping more evenly. A hacksaw will can be used for the job as well. Just use anything that will cut PVC piping.
PRECAUTION: Please use safety goggles. There will be a lot of PVC dust when using a Dremel. If you must, use a mask.
The intake consists of two piping sections: the main pipe (the pipe which runs front to back) and the “downpipe” (the pipe which runs up and down). The main pipe is 13? in. in length (±0.1 inches). The “downpipe” is 6? in. in length (±0.1 inches).
Measurements:
Main pipe: 13? in. (± 0.1 inches)
Downpipe: 6? in. (± 0.1 inches)
You are allowed plus or minus 0.1 inches error, hence, ±0.1 inches. This is not a must; it is a guideline. Sand the edges to remove any nicks and excess PVC strings. You want them smoothed out and not rough.
When you are done making the two pipes, wash them. Remove any PVC dust from the inside with a towel. Then, set them aside for later. You will need to drill a hole in the main pipe a few steps down.
Step 4: “To my old intake: We had some great times together. It was nice knowing you.” (Removing the factory intake):
Tools needed in this step:
· Ratchet
· 10mm head
NOTE: Do not destroy the stock intake. You may need it in the future.
Locate the clamp near the throttle body holding the intake hose in place. Loosen that screw. On the air box, there are four clamps holding the filter housing in place. Unclamp the four clamps. Remove the filter out of the box. You will find three bolts holding the bottom of the air box in place. Unscrew and remove those bolts. You can now remove the air box and intake hose. Jiggle it out if you have to. There will be one part of the intake left. It is the tube that gathers cool air from the front (technically, the stock intake is a cool air intake but it has small piping; we’re just upgrading). Remove this later when you remove the battery and coolant tank in the next step.
IMPORTANT: There is a rubber grommet holding the air temperature sensor in place. It is located on the top part of the air box. You will need this rubber grommet. Please save it, and do not destroy the air temperature sensor when removing the old intake.
Step 5: “Henry, the intake won’t fit.” (Removing stuff to get the intake in):
Tools needed in this step:
· Ratchet
· Socket heads
I knew the intake I designed would never fit into my car the way everything was set up. So, I had to remove the bottom panel of my car to get the intake assembly in. Fortunately, I found a better way. By removing the battery, battery tray, and coolant overflow tank, you can get the intake in easier without having to work under the car. The fuse box will have to be moved and relocated temporarily. Since I never removed my battery before, I can’t write a detailed explanation how to do so. But the procedure is very simple. Read a Haynes or a Chilton’s manual if you have to.
Keep in mind when you fit the intake that you do not run the intake in the space where the battery and coolant tank occupy. The intake should run right next to the fuse box. You want the filter to sit beneath the battery and coolant tank.
Also, you can remove the intake tube that was mentioned in the previous step.
I realized that there is a metal piece welded to the frame under the battery tray. Therefore, if the filter is too big to fit through the void, then it must be inserted from under the car. That means having to remove the bottom plastic panel. There are only a few bolts that have to be removed to flex it open and fit the filter through; the entire panel does not have to come off.
Step 6: “Do these pants make my ass look big?” (Testing placement and size of the new intake):
Items needed in this step:
Main pipe
“Downpipe”
All elbows
Filter assembly
Rubber nipple assembly
This is the testing part to see if everything you made fits properly. Take the time to install the components and sections in the engine bay, and be sure to eyeball everything.
1. The rubber nipple assembly attaches to the throttle body.
2. The main pipe connects to the rubber nipple assembly, and runs towards the front of the car.
3. The 90° long bend (female/female) connector (item #3) connects to the main pipe, and runs downward aimed towards the ground.
4. The “downpipe” connects to the 90° long turn (female/female) elbow (item #3).
5. The filter assembly connects to the “downpipe,” and the filter end points towards the front-left corner of the car (see picture below). Check if you can slide the filter assembly between the radiator fan, battery, and transmission. If you can, that’s great. If you can’t, we’ll have to do it the different way. I have my doubts you will not be able to.
If you have to, re-cut and re-measure the piping. By now, I hope you understand what the intake is supposed to look like. It should run towards the front of the car, and then turn downward towards the ground, and then the filter should point towards the front-left corner of car.
This is the most important step. You need to memorize how the intake will sit inside the engine bay. Use a permanent marker to make markings on the intake. So when you are assembling the intake, all you have to do is match up the markings. You should have a minimum of 8 markings on the intake.
Step 7.1: “What the hell is an ‘air temperature sensor’?” (Making the hole for the air temperature sensor):
Tools needed in this step:
· Dremel OR
· Drill
You need to make a hole in your main pipe to accompany the air temperature sensor. The hole needs to be large enough so the rubber grommet you saved from the old air box will fit. The hole should be made 3-4 in. from one end of the main pipe and approx. ? in. in diameter. The end with the hole will be closer to the driver/intake manifold/throttle body and away from the front of the car. Also, the hole should be facing the left side of the car away from the engine.
Step 7.2 (optional): "Henry, I'm going to hydrolock with your intake design!" (Making the a hole for a breather filter to serve as a bypass valve):
Tools needed in this step:
· Dremel OR
· Drill
This is for those of you who live in very wet conditions and would like to install an inexpensive bypass valve. Due to the position of the intake, the filter is prone to suck up water in deep puddles. It is best to avoid deep puddles, but in case it is impossible to do so, installing a bypass valve can lessen the effect of hydrolock. The bypass valve is basically a breather filter. This is only a theory and has not been fully tested. The theory behind the idea is simple: when the intake filter is immersed in water, there is a change in pressure, and the air will be sucked through the breather filter instead of the main intake filter. Water is denser than air. If there was no bypass valve, the water would go straight into the engine. With a breather filter, the water is too heavy and air will enter the breather filter.
Drill a hole in the main pipe a few inches away from the air temperature sensor hole (see picture below). Make the hole penny-sized. Install the breather filter after painting.
Step 8: “Michelangelo, eat your heart out.” (Putting the intake together and painting it):
Items needed in this step:
· Dupli-Color Engine paint (item #8)
· PVC cement (item #5)
· Intake parts
This is the longest step because you have to wait for the paint and glue to dry. If you don’t have time to wait, then you might as well start putting everything back together now. At least you’ll know that everything will fit, and that is the most important aspect of this intake: IT NEEDS TO FIT. Make sure again and again you can fit the fully assembled intake inside the bay and that it will go in easily.
Remove the filter from the filter assembly elbow. You don’t need to damage or paint the filter. Make sure all the intake parts are clean and free of PVC dust.
When using PVC cement, please read the precaution on the container. PVC cement is harmful to your health when inhaled. Use it in a well-ventilated area.
Starting with the rubber nipple assembly, apply a thin layer of PVC cement to the inside of the PVC bend female connector. Shove the end of the main pipe with the hole for the temperature sensor into the female connectors. Match up the markings. Be sure to shove it in there real good. Use a rubber mallet if you have to. Next, take the long bend elbow (item #3), and apply a thin layer of PVC cement inside the female flange. Make sure you know which female flange goes downward and which one faces the driver. Apply another thin layer of PVC cement to the other end of the female flange, and shove the “downpipe” inside. Match up the markings, as well. Be sure that they are secure and are shoved in as much as possible. Finally, apply the last layer of PVC cement inside the female end of the filter elbow (currently w/ no filter on it), and shove the female flange onto the “downpipe.” Match up the markings.
All the connections should be secure and all the markings should match up. Allow the glue to set and cure.
Painting the intake takes a lot of your time, but it is relatively simple. You have the option of painting the rubber nipple, like I did, but the paint does not stick well to the rubber. It takes a long time for the paint to dry on the rubber. If you don’t want to paint the nipple, remove it for now, and then put it back on. Apply numerous coats until you don’t see any white and/or any of the markings made with the permanent marker. It needs to be thick enough to shield out the heat. Don’t paint the rubber grommet that holds the air temperature sensor; it’s pointless. And please don’t paint it with the filter on.
Let the paint dry for a few hours or until it is dry to the touch.
Step 9: “Oh my God! Am I done yet?” (Finishing up):
Items need in this step:
· Your completed intake
· K&N filter (item #7)
· The rubber grommet from the old air box
You’re almost done. Make sure the intake is clean on the inside. You don’t want any PVC dust inside the engine. Put the filter back on, and tighten the clamp. Put the rubber grommet in the hole you drilled in the main pipe. If you removed the rubber plumbing nipple, put it back on as well, and tighten the clamp. Install the intake. Hopefully, all your testing paid off. It should by all means fit with simplicity. The rubber nipple should go onto the throttle body with ease (don’t forget to loosen the clamp before doing so); the hole for the air temperature sensor should be facing away from the engine; the intake should go towards the car, skim the fuse box, then make a turn going downwards, and then point towards the front-left corner of the car; and the filter should touch the bottom plastic panel or hover above it.
Put your battery tray and battery back in. If possible, put the fuse box where it is supposed to rest: bolted onto the battery tie-down. Otherwise, position it where the old air box used to be. Tighten the clamp on the rubber nipple that attaches itself to the throttle body. Insert the air temperature sensor inside the hole you made.
Well, guess what? You’re done… or you’re supposed to be done. The intake should’ve cost under $92. Now, if you think this isn’t worth your money, throw away your hard work, and go buy yourself a $210 intake that you didn’t make. I’ve had many people ask me about my intake on the Internet and at autocrosses. I am proud of my intake. I hope you are proud of your intake, too.
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