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Toyota Celica 5th Generation Shifter Modification

5th Generation Shifter Modification

Below are the instructions for using the stock shifter from a 7th generation Celica (2000-) in a 5th generation Celica. This will give a quicker smoother throw for a fraction of the price of buying or importing a shortshifter from Japan. These shifters can be found quite cheaply from 7th generation owners who have installed a TRD shortshifter in their car.

Preparation of the 7th Generation Shifter assembly

1. When you get the 7th Generation Celica shifter it is encased in a large plastic housing. On the top of this housing is a small door/hinged cover type thing(for lack of a better term).
2. Cut the cover in half with Dremel or another type tool. After the cover is cut the two sides will swing up.
   On the side of the plastic housing there are hinges and springs, and part of the shifter itself runs through a lever, it is held in place by a pressed on plastic cap.
3. Pop off the cap...DON'T LOSE IT!!! YOU REUSE IT!!!
   ----To do this just put sideways tension on the shifter.
4. Rotate the levers upwards until the shifter is clear, and put it aside.
   

On your 5th Generation Celica

1. Remove the shift-knob, shifter cover, shift-boot, and foamy thing(if you have one).
2. See the little metal cover with three 10mm bolts?? take it off...DON'T LOSE IT!!!
3. Next there is one of two shift rods. This is on the drivers side of the shifter. Remove the cotter-pin and teflon sleeve...DON'T LOSE IT!!!(see a theme here?)
4. Next are the four 12mm bolts holding the assebly(sp) to the frame.
5. Now the second shift rod, this one is underneath, and held on by the mother of all cotter-pins...DON'T LOSE IT!!!
6. The whole unit pulls out.
7. Repeat steps 3 and 4...there is a spring on the side of the housing remember how it sits, it is important.
8. Once you get the old shifter out of the housing, pull off the old friction cup...but don't damage it, or the gaskets...YOU WILL REUSE THEM. But you DO need to clean the cup.
9. Take the Y2K shifter and 5th Gen friction cup, grease them with a Silicone based lubricant...if you don't have a Silicone base, white lithium grease will work fine. Use liberally.
10. Reassemble everything in the reverse order in which you took it out.
11. Check for clearance, space if needed...shift away!!!

Apex'i S-AFC Installation on Toyota Celica

This write-up describes how to install an Apexi S-AFC (Gen1) on a 94-95 Toyota Celica (5S-FE). It may work with other generations, but you’ll have to figure out the wiring yourself.

Basically what the S-AFC does is alter the voltage the ECU receives from the MAP sensor. This causes the air/fuel mixture to either go leaner (-) or richer (+).You can adjust in increments of 2%.You can fine-tune the mixture at different RPM points (800rpm, 2400rpm, 4000rpm, 5600rpm, 7200rpm).Obviously the last setting is not used. The ECU won't use the values of the AFC while in closed loop mode (under 80% throttle). But when you step on it (when racing), the ECU goes into open loop mode, ignoring the O2 sensor and only relying on the MAP sensor for data. So the Gen1 AFC is only usable under WOT (Wide open throttle) situations. I don’t promise huge hp gains, but with Intake/Header/Exhaust and correct tuning, you’ll get a few more horses!

Tools Needed:

• Apexi S-AFC and harness
• Wire taps/connectors
• Wire stripper/cutter
• Multi-meter
• 10mm socket
• ECU Diagram
• 3-4 hours of patience!

You can also download the actual manual from the Apexi website:
http://www.apexi-usa.com/productdocunt ation/electronics_afc_gen1.pdf

Step 1:Disconnect the battery

This step is a no brainer. You’ll be playing with the ECU so you definitely have to disconnect the negative. Loosen the 10mm bolt from the battery and wiggle it off. Wait 90 seconds then continue to step 2.

Step 2: Setup the AFC

Since the 5S-FE uses a MAP sensor, we must set it up to use it. So, on the back of the AFC, set the CAR SELECT to 3 and TYPE SELECT to

NOTE: For those installing Gen2 AFC’s, the correct sensor should be PR-3

Step 3: Find a place to mount it

I decided to mount the AFC under my CD player.That’s because there was a hole there anyways, since I had the double DIN Tape/CD combo before. I just found some nice plastic and cut away! You can also put it in your glove compartment, but then, how can you see it??

Step 4: Locate the ECU

For the 6th Gen Celica’s, the ECU is easily accessible.All I did was pull at the carpet and there it was.Here is the picture of the ECU pin-outs.

Wire Color	ECU	What is it?
Red Wire	IG Power	12v power source
Black Wire	Ground	Grounded source
Green Wire	RPM Signal 2 (20A)	Signal from Igniter
Yellow Wire	Pressure Signal (2B)	Signal from AFC to ECU
White Wire	N/A	Signal from MAP sensor to AFC

Step 5: Tap the wires

Using the above diagram, tap the red, black, green wires first. Since those don’t require any cutting.The Map sensor wire requires cutting. There wasn’t much room to work with so I just cut the MAP sensor wire half way.Attach the yellow wire from the AFC into the wire to the ECU. Connect the white wire to the other end. NOTE: DO NOT MIX UP THE WIRES FOR THE MAP SENSOR! I did the 1st time, got a check engine light, and the car died.

Here is a picture of the installation, I will tidy it up later, but it is winter now, and its too cold outside!

Step 6: Clean up
Check that all your connections are tight, and put everything back to where it was. Also, make sure that all your settings are 0% 0% 0% 0% 0%. After everything is done, reconnect the negative battery (and don’t forget to set your clock!!)

Step 7: Go for a drive
Start the car. It should idle a little high (1000rpm), but once the engine warms up, it’ll be back to normal (750-800 rpm for me). There should be NO check engine light!If there is, shut the car off immediately and check your connections!!!! Do not try to adjust the settings of the AFC, WITHOUT a DYNO! I’m not responsible for you leaning the engine out and blowing up your block! Although running extremely lean will make more power, it will also make your wallet unhappy from the engine swap.

Step 8: Setting up a AIR/FUEL gauge (Optional)
For those of you who also want to install an a/f gauge, you can tap into the ECU wire 5B or 6B. It’s the pink wire from the O2 sensor.

Step 9: You’re done!
It took me around 4 hours to install the AFC. But I had help from my brother. So it may take you longer! If you have no previous electrical experience, then I would not recommend you do this mod, but you are always welcome to try! Here is the picture of the AFC at night. The knobs light up green, and the rpm you are at light up as red. When you rev the engine, it gradually fades to the next knob. Very cool to watch at night!!!ENJOY!

Toyota Celica Auto to Manual Conversion

The article I am writing is from my personal experience in converting my 1990 Celica GT w/ a non-ECT transmission. If you want to convert your car and it has an ECT controlled transmission you can use this as a guide, but there are some things that are different such as the ECT controller is built into the ECU. So there will be some wiring issues that you will have to work out on your own.

I have heard a lot of people talk about wanting to convert their car, but I have never seen one converted or seen any type of detailed instructions on the process. I wanted to convert my car and have it done in such detail that you couldn't tell that it wasn't built from the factory that way. But I also wanted to help others by giving a well detailed how to so when you are in the middle of the conversion you aren't gong to get surprised with something out of left field. You can convert you car in a 3 or 4day weekend if you have everything on hand and a fairly decent set of tools. One of the big things is that you can't tear out your transmission and be half way back together and realize that the bell housing bolts are different lengths (and they are). You can't just jump in your car and run down to the parts store and get the extra stuff you need at a moments notice. I was very lucky though because I work for a Toyota dealership and had access to a lift, air tools, and a large bolt selection. I was able to come up with the sudden extras I needed.

There is so much information to give you that if I threw it out it would over whelm most people and you would have trouble knowing where to start. So I am going to break it down into chapters to help make things easier. First chapter: Parts list and compatibility issues. Second: Master cylinder, clutch pedal, and hydraulic system. Third: Shifter and cables. Fourth: Transmission. Fifth: Electrical wiring and schematics.

Rear Disc Brake Conversion For 5th generation Celica's

Rear Disc Brake Conversion For 5th generation Celica's

I have recently converted my car from an automatic to manual transmission. Since that conversion I have been thinking about what my next project would be. I have a 3sgte project in the wings but decided to beef up my brake system first. So I got my funds together and started looking at my options. I found a rear disc system under a '95 model Celica GT w/ ABS (I just cut the sensor wire off). I wasn't sure at first if it would work or not, so I pull my car in and measure a bunch of angles and find that the rear knuckles are identical. I also did a little research and found that there is no difference in the master cylinder and proportioning valve on disc and drum brakes. I looked it up in the parts department and the only option is with or without ABS. The master cylinder and valve is the same for disc or drum on non-ABS systems. So off I head up to the yard and end up getting the rear disc brake assembly, rear struts, and sub-frame for $150, and they removed it to my specs and delivered it to the dealership to boot. Can't beat a deal like that. But if you go and pull it yourself there are some things you need to make sure you take with you. First is to take all of the bolt home with you that you can salvage. Never know when you will damage one. The long stabilizer bolts especially. Make sure you take a good rust penetrate with you. Take the horseshoe clips for the brake lines also, they are a little bigger than the drum clips. But you can file and make the drum ones work.

Tools needed to remove the brakes are: rust penetrate, 19, 17, 14, 12, 10 mm wrenches and sockets, and a large screwdriver and a large hammer.

What I decided to do is to pull apart the rear assembly and prepare everything before I went to install anything. I installed new pads and cleaned up the parking brake shoes painted the knuckles and made sure the emergency brake lines were free and smooth, and that the hoses and bleeder valve are clean and clear. Once I have everything in order I pull the car in and rack it up, pull the rear wheels and away we go.

My baby ready to be reborn	Rear disc system ready to be installed