Toyota Celica Generations

Winter fun with celica ST182

2012-01-23T13:01:00.000+02:00

Went to a local airfield to try out just fallen snow with my Toyota Celica 1993 2.0 gti twin cam ST182

Jesienny Zlot Celica-Club Poland

2012-01-15T16:49:00.003+02:00

Celica GT4 ST205 with Greddy Type S BOV

2012-01-15T16:48:00.003+02:00

Toyota Celica Carlos Sainz GT turbo 4х4 1993

2012-01-15T16:48:00.000+02:00

Toyota Celica Carlos Sainz GT turbo 4х4 1993 commercial video from Двигайся уверенно "На Колесах.Ру"!

Celica GT4 vs Skyline R33

2012-01-15T16:46:00.002+02:00

Drag race Celica GT4 vs Skyline R33

Celica GT4 - Rally 17.12.11

2012-01-15T16:44:00.002+02:00

Celica GT4 - Rally 17.12.11

Toyota Celica Gt4 vs Nissan 350z

2012-01-15T16:43:00.001+02:00

Toyota Celica Gt4 vs Nissan 350z nice drag race on public road

Celica GT-S turbo vs Celica GT turbo

2012-01-15T16:41:00.002+02:00

Celica GT-S turbo vs Celica GT turbo on street!

Chaliits Celica project part 1

2011-12-14T23:37:00.010+02:00

The time my celica will get painted in one colour has finally came.

My Toyota Celica 1993 sound system

2011-08-23T10:34:00.002+03:00

Alpine CDA-117RI + 2 way component system Mystery MO65.1 + Pioneer TS-W307D2 + Ground Zero GZUA 1.1000DX in Toyota Celica 1993

Celica summer photos

2011-05-31T20:08:00.000+03:00

Now my celica has isolated doors

2011-05-27T11:28:00.001+03:00

Isolating materials SilentCoat Vibrodamping and SilentCoat Sound Absorber 15mm

Before:

After

Before

In Process

Result

Trunk also got some isolation

My Toyota Celica winter photos

2011-03-09T09:51:00.002+02:00

DJ Layla - City of Sleeping Hearts

2011-02-16T13:14:00.003+02:00

Music to listen in celica

Dj Layla feat. Radu Sirbu & Dee-Dee - Drive

2011-02-16T13:14:00.000+02:00

Music to listen in celica

Swizz Beatz - It's Me Bitches

2011-02-16T13:00:00.002+02:00

Music to listen in celica

[HD] Sander van Doorn - Renegade (Club Edit) Trance Energy 2010 Anthem

2011-02-16T12:43:00.002+02:00

Music to listen in celica

BrainStorm На заре

2011-02-16T12:42:00.002+02:00

Music to listen in celica

SunStroke Project & Olia Tira - Run Away (Moldova)

2011-02-16T12:39:00.000+02:00

Toyota Celica GT-4 ST165 - with pure engine sounds

2011-02-16T11:50:00.000+02:00

Celica 4wd test drive

2011-02-16T11:49:00.000+02:00

Something from celica 7 generation. Photos

2011-02-16T11:19:00.000+02:00

Celica Generation 6 VEILSIDE bodykit

2010-08-21T12:57:00.000+03:00

Notes:
Components	Front Bumper $ 820.00 Side Skirts $ 610.00 Rear Bumper$ 610.00 Rear Wing (Variable) $ 610.00
Contact:	http://www.veilsideusa.com/

Celica Generation 6 EUROU bodykit

2010-08-21T12:56:00.003+03:00

Notes:
Components	Front Spoiler Side Skirts Rear Apron
Price	Front Spoiler ¥48000 Side Skirts ¥58000 Rear Apron ¥42000
Contact:	http://www.aero-eurou.com/

Celica Generation 6 C-ONE bodykit

2010-08-21T12:56:00.000+03:00

Notes:
Components	Front Bumper (FF Celica:CA5210-ST200/GT-4: CA5210-ST210) Hood (CA5330-ST200/CA5210-ST210) Side Skirts (CA7690-ST200/CA5210-ST200) Rear Apron (CA5220-ST200/CA5220-ST210) Rear Spoiler (CA7600-ST210) (adapter/front spoiler may also be needed)
Fits	ST200,ST202,ST203,ST205
Price	Bumber ¥68000/720000 Hood ¥93,000/98000 Side Skirts ¥58,000 /58000 Rear Apron ¥48,000/48000 Spoiler ¥58,000 /58000
Contact:	http://www.c-one.co.jp/

Celica Generation 6 Way-Glide/Z-Glide bodykit

2010-08-21T12:55:00.002+03:00

Notes:	Way-Glide "Type 3"
Fits:	ST202/3
Components	9321 Front Under Spoiler Type 3 ¥48000 9322 Side Step Type 3 ¥67000 9323 Rear Spoiler Type 3 ¥53000 9324 Rear Wing Type 3 ¥93000 9325 Aero Mirror ¥50000
Contact:	http://www.komax.co.jp/racingcelicawayglide.html

2005 Toyota Celica

2010-08-21T12:52:00.002+03:00

2005 Toyota Celica

Above are a possible images of the next Celica. Possibly overseas, now that it has been discontinued in North America

The Unauthorized Biography of the Toyota Celica gen 5...

2010-08-21T12:51:00.001+03:00

5th Generation

The fifth generation Celica was introduced in the 1990 model year. Totally redesigning the styling, Toyota stayed with FWD and created a much more rounded and sculpted body. Arriving in both lift-back and sports coupe the 5th generation had a lower front end a higher rear end giving the Celica an angled, aggressive and sporty look. Released in 5 trims the All-Trac (or GT-4 in Europe) with 200HP and all wheel drive (AWD) was by far the most powerful. Identified by a prominent hood scoop and vents this model became one of the rarest and sought after Celicas ever released in the US.

Toyota introduced the fifth generation Celica with five trim levels in the US: ST, GT, GT-S, convertible and All-Trac. The base model ST came in both the coupe and liftback styling accompanied with the 1.6L 104 HP 4A-FE, a racing engine handicapped with an narrow angle economic head. The GT and GTS only available in liftback form came with the all new 5S-FE a larger displacement watered down version of the 3S-FE. The GTS is distinguished from the GT by its wider fender flares, dual tip muffler4 wheel disc brakes, and more standard features and options. The most powerful Celica, the All-Trac turbo had a 200HP and all-wheel-drive. Improving on the previous generation All-Trac the improved 3S-GTE had a new top mounted air-cooled intercooler and an optional torque-sensing differential.

Following the standard pattern for the Celica (new model every 4 years, facelift every 2) the front was redesigned splitting up the wide grill with a vertical bar. Also holes were placed on either side of the existing grill for a modified air intake or fog light placement. Toyota also replaced the "Celica" with the tri-oval Toyota symbol, and modified the rear lights.

Internationally, there however there were a few differences from the American Celica line. In Japan, as usually is the case Toyota kept the best models for themselves. Trims included a base mode (125 HP 3S-FE), a GT-I (165HP 3S-GE), and a more powerful GT-4 (225HP 3S-GTE). Japan-only options included 4 wheel steering (4WS) and Actively Controlled Suspension (ACS). Released later was the GT-4 RC (rally car) with recessed hood vents in place of the hood scoop on the All-Trac models. Europe was also blessed with a slightly toned down version of the GT-I with the 3S-GE, and later the ST-I (4A-FE). In 1992 Europe also received the GT-4 RC renamed the "Carlos Saintz edition" GT-4.

The Unauthorized Biography of the Toyota Celica...

2010-08-21T12:50:00.000+03:00

6th Generation (1994-99)

The 6th generation Celica was introduced in the US in the 1994 model year. The new model had more aerodynamic curves, unique "bug-eyes" and more aggressive look than the 5th generation Celica. Unfortunately, Toyota did little to back up the more aggressive look, dropping the all-trac from the US line, and leaving the engine and suspension basically unchanged. So similar were the two generations many improvements were overlooked. The already heavy Celica lost nearly 250 pounds during the facelift and a larger set of wheels improved the handling immensely. The base model Celica received a revised 1.8L engine with increased torque and improved drivability dramatically. The GT engine 2.2L engine stayed with the GT trim Celica with an unchanged 135HP powering a lightener car. The suspension was unchanged with both Celicas received MacPherson struts up front and Chapman struts in the rear. Inside the Celica took a turn for better receiving a higher quality materials and a better look than most sporty cars of the price range.

In 1996 the Celica entered its 25th anniversary as the longest running car sold in America. The 25th anniversary editions sported 25th anniversary badges and floor mats as well as a redesigned of the front fascia. The "rounded mouth" was gone as Toyota integrated fog lights into the bumper and the smiling mouth was squared up. This design stayed until the Celica was reintroduced in 2000, minus of course the 25th anniversary badges.

The market for sporty cars tanked during the mid to late 90s tanked as people discovered poor-handling tipsy SUVs. Many sporty/sports cars on the market simply ceased production during this time. Casualties included such legendary names as the Toyota Supra, Nissan 300ZX, Nissan 240ZX, and the Mazda RX-7. Unfortunately, the high price of the Celica and slowing market also doomed the popularity of the 6th generation Celica. Never being on the cheap side, the usual rising cost of production of Toyota's forced a price well above the competitors with similarly equipped cars (including the Nissan 240SX, and Acura Integra.). Unfortunately this meant that people began to turn to the cheaper and more powerful alternatives. As numbers dropped off so did the amount that Toyota was shipping to the US. In 1998 Toyota dropped the base model ST, and dealers received fewer (if any) Celicas. The speculation at the time was that the entire Celica line would be dropped.

The Unauthorized Biography of the Toyota Celica...

2010-08-21T11:49:00.002+03:00

7th Generation

It is 1998 and the Celica is clinging to life. The MR2 and Supra have been withdrawn to Japanese shores and the Celica is on life support. The current model of the Celica hasn't been truly redesigned since 1993...an eternity when you consider the short life spans of sporty cars. Although the Celica is officially produced until 1999 many US Toyota dealers don't even see the model on their lots. Rumors have the Celica disappearing from the Toyota lineup entirely.

Toyota decides to completely revamp the Celica and give the market what it is looking for. Aiming for the market that Honda has dominated so well for the past few years with the Civic/Integra, Toyota aims directly for the top of the line Integra GS-R. No longer building the Celica as a sporty/luxury car, the Toyota Celica is now designed for the inexpensive performance minded market. Extreme, Young and Racy is the new target Toyota is hoping to meet with the new Celica...

Design-wise Toyota turns to its CALTY design center to find a design that appeals to the younger market. Turning outside the Japanese designers Toyota hopes depart from the conservative "safe" image that Toyota is all too well known for. Below are the Sketches that Toyota decides to aim for.

Aiming squarely for the top of the Integra line, Toyota turns to Yamaha to produce an engine that outperforms the Honda version in every way. The Honda patent for variable valve timing (VTEC) expires and Toyota is now allowed to introduce its version variable valve timing in the form of VVTl-i (Variable Valve Timing with lift and intelligence). A technology which is superior to Honda's VTEC Toyota and Yamaha introduce this new technology in the Celica with the 2ZZ-GE engine. In a factory built engine Toyota nearly matches Honda's hand assembled, port and polished Integra Type-R, and does away clearly dominates Honda's stock output in the GS-R (160HP)...clearly an accomplishment.

The first the public sees of the new exciting Celica comes in the form of the Toyota XYR concept at the Detroit International Auto show in 1999....

With rave reviews, Toyota almost immediately begins production for a release later in the year. Aside from the huge aluminum spoiler the XYR basically becomes the new seventh generation Celica. Toyota releases the Celica in two trims worldwide...the GT with a 140HP engine with VVT-i and the GTS with a stated 180HP or 192 HP from 1.8L with VVTl-i. Europe receives the GT-S one year later.

North American GT

North American GT-S

Toyota Celica VEILSIDE Bodykit

2010-08-16T13:24:00.001+03:00

Notes:
Components	Front Bumper $630.00 Side Skirts $460.00 Rear Bumper $610.00 Rear GT Wing (FRP) $490.00 Rear GT Wing (Carbon Fiber) $630.00
Contact:	http://www.veilsideusa.com/

Toyota Celica WINGS WEST Bodykit

2010-08-16T13:23:00.003+03:00

Notes:
Kit	CELICA "W" TYPE
Components	#890466 FRONT AIR DAM $224.00 #890467 LEFT SIDE SKIRT $150.00 #890468 RIGHT SIDE SKIRT $150.00 #890469 REAR LOWER WRAP $224.00 #890470 COMPLETE 4PC KIT $679.00
Contact:	http://www.wingswest.com/

Celica Concept Cars

2010-08-16T13:19:00.002+03:00

Toyota Celica "Cruising Deck" Concept

Same engine/configuration as the GT-S... the Celica Cruising Deck features a more realistic rear seat built into the trunk space of the Celica. The trunk is space is then replaced by the trailer in the picture above.

Toyota Celica Convertible Concept

Introduced in 2000 the convertible concept has a realistic version of being produced. The concept features the chassis/engine of the 2000 model year Celica GT-S

Rod Millen "Ultimate Celica" Concept

Introduced around the time of the new Celica the "Ultimate Celica" was designed to peek interest in the then new 2000 Celica. To put it simply the Ultimate Celica was a $500,000 concept car. The engine and driveline were lifted from the 6th generation GT4 and a redesigned 7th generation body was put on top. Powering the Ultimate Celica is an over bored 3S-GTE with a Garrett turbocharger putting out just under 500 HP. Unfortunately, the car seems more show than go as tests conducted by various magazines showed less than stellar acceleration times. There were also rumors that the car was/is extremely fragile and that it may have actually been built as all show and no go...(Only Rod Millen knows for sure) Unfortunately, as Toyota has no interest in WRC, a GT-4 model, such as the Ultimate Celica is not likely to reappear any time in the foreseeable future. It might also be important to note that this car was called the "F1 Celica" overseas...something that may hint at something based off this design in the future.

Body Style	ST225?? 2000 model Celica
ENGINE	2.0-liter, 4-cylinder, twin cam, 16-valve 3S-GTE 500 HP, 340 lbs/ft Torque
Suspension	Front: Toyota Superstrut Rear: Independent dual link
Brakes	Front: 12.3x1.26 (313x32mm)/ventilated disc, 4-piston caliper Rear: 12.3x.63 (313x16mm)/ventilated disc, 2-piston caliper
Wheels	- Center locking, 8.5x19 in. BBS magnesium Alloy with 245/35 19 Michelin Pilot tires
Dimensions	Length: 174.9 in Width: Front 72.1" / Rear 71.5" Height 50.0"

XYR Concept

The XYR concept is the concept car on which the current Celica is based.
Configuration is very similar to the GT-S with a 1.8L engine
tuned by Yamaha to around 180-190 HP

Toyota Station Wagon Concept

2012 Toyota Celica Review and Prices

2010-08-16T13:17:00.000+03:00

Recent media reports indicate Toyota and Subaru have restarted development of their compact-sport-coupe project. The companies suspended efforts in early 2009 due to economic conditions.
Mighty Toyota's once-popular sporty coupe is set to be reborn as a low-dollar, high-mpg Mazda MX5- and Hyundai Genesis Coupe-fighter with rear-wheel drive and a Subaru powertrain. Goliath teaming up with David? Yup, and it could be just the start of a beautiful friendship.

What We Know About the 2012 Toyota Celica
Journalists all over are buzzing about the announced "low-cost sports car" being hatched by Subaru and Toyota. Each brand will sell its own version with specific styling on a shared rear-wheel-drive platform with a Subaru-sourced horizontally opposed 4-cylinder engine. Subaru has already confirmed U.S. sale for its entry, name to be determined. In an interview with Digg.com conducted in February 2010, Toyota USA President and CEO Jim Lentz confirmed the company's plans to produce an "affordable" sports car for the U.S. market. Lentz cited the Toyota FT-86 Concept shown at the 2009 Tokyo Motor Show as "a joint-venture product between Subaru and Toyota...(that) will be coming to market." Both models are rumored to come in at under $20,000 and likely closer to $17,000 if the dollar/yen exchange rate doesn't go completely haywire.

The project was announced at a Tokyo press conference in April 2008. Toyota CEO Katsuaki Watanabe provided only broad-brush outlines, but pointedly noted, "We haven't had a sports car for a long time. This is a long-awaited-for model." That's no doubt code for the general rap that Toyota hasn't made "interesting" cars since it dropped the Celica and the mid-engine MR2 Spyder convertible back in 2005. The criticism evidently stung, as Toyota reportedly set up a study group to generate ideas for upping the brand's cool factor with the all-important youth market. That's one reason for this new compact sport coupe, which aims to deliver slick looks, tight handling, and great mpg, all at a budget-friendly price.
A second motivation for Toyota is furthering ties with Subaru parent Fuji Heavy Industries. Toyota was quick to replace General Motors as a Fuji "alliance partner" back in 2005, taking an 8.7 percent stake soon after the American company bailed. With that, Subaru began building midsize Toyota Camry sedans at its under-utilized plant in Lafayette, Indiana, a mutually successful endeavor that reportedly led to the joint-venture sports car. Toyota now plans to up its stake in Fuji to 16.5 percent (for a reported $311 million)--partly, some analysts believe, for access to Subaru's signature expertise in horizontally opposed engines and all-wheel drive. In exchange, Subaru is getting rebadged versions of Toyota "K-class" minicars for a lucrative segment in the Japanese market where the smaller automaker has been a weak player.
So much for background. As for the car itself, the 2012 Toyota Celica--and its Subaru sister--is rumored to be a sloped-roof hatchback with a slightly larger footprint than the late front-drive Acura RSX coupe (known elsewhere as the Honda Integra). Our dimensions reflect numbers reported on Toyota's Japan media site. If the FT-86 Concept is to be believed, the new Toybaru--or Subayota--will be a four-passenger package with a cozy rear seat and adult-size room in front.
[source]

Sixth Generation Celica Lighting Guide

2010-08-13T14:59:00.003+03:00

The sixth generation Celica uses many different light bulbs. This page describes which light bulbs are used in the USDM sixth generation Toyota Celica.
If you're considering changing your headlight bulbs to aftermarket bulbs, be very careful to only install lights that run at the stock wattage, which is 55 watts for the low beams and OEM fog lights and 65 watts for the high beams. If you install any bulbs that run above that wattage, you run the risk of melting your headlight wiring and sockets, which are expensive and tough to replace. Aftermarket bulbs that run above stock wattage may do this because of the increased current that they draw. Aftermarket bulbs that run above stock wattage will most likely burn out much faster than bulbs that run at stock wattage.
Low Beam - 9006 (55 watts)
High Beam - 9005 (65 watts)
Fog Light - H3 (55 watts)
Turn Signal - 1157
Sidemarker - 194
Rear Turn Signal - 1156
Tail Light - 1157
Glove Box - 74
Guage Cluster - 194 (Larger Bulbs) and 74 (Smaller Bulbs)

JDM Projectors and Tail Lights Info Celica generation 6

2010-08-13T14:59:00.000+03:00

It seems like Japan always gets the best when it comes to cars themselves and the parts on them. Japan and Europe get the all wheel drive, turbocharged GT-Four, and some models of the Celica have different tail-lights and projector headlights.
Some Toyota Celicas in Japan and Europe have tail-lights that are different than the USDM tail-lights. These tail-lights are found on some of the overseas sixth generation Toyota Celicas from 1996 on. They can be imported, but cost a lot of money to import from Japan. They are a direct replacement to your existing tail-lights, and use the same bulbs and wiring as your existing tail-lights. Although you probably won't be able to go to your Toyota dealer and order these, the part number for the left JDM tail-light is 81561-2B240 and the part number for the right is 81551-2B300.

Some of the Toyota Celicas available overseas have projector headlights. These headlights consist of a projector headlight for the low beam headlight(These are the lights on the outside.) and a crystal clear headlight for the high beams(These are the lights on the inside.) These headlights can be found on the Toyota Celica SS-III and GT-Four models for the 1996 and up model years. These headlights are not available and the US, and therefore, must be imported if you want them on your car. They're expensive to import and are not DOT approved, so they're technically illegal to put on your car. Also, they require changes to your headlight wiring, because they use an H1 bulb for the low beam headlight. The high beam still uses the existing 9005 bulb.

Celica Generation 6 Short Ram Intake and Drop-in Filter Power Differences

2010-08-13T14:57:00.000+03:00

Many have wondered about the benefits or drawbacks of short ram intakes such as the Weapon-R and the Injen, and drop-in filters such as K&N and Tom's Filters. Both have their advantages and disadvantages, but as far as performance goes, you may be surprised.
Recently, I took my '99 GT to a dyno facility to see how much horsepower it put down. We ran it multiple times, once with a drop in Tom's Racing air filter and once with an aftermarket intake system that wasn't a cold air intake.
With the drop-in filter, we got a peak output of 95.3 horsepower. With the intake, we got a peak output of 95.8 horsepower. Only a .5 horsepower difference. Take into consideration however, that we had the intake sticking out of the engine bay to draw in somewhat cold air. If you have a short ram intake with the hood closed, your performance may suffer a little bit more because of the hot air being drawn in. A heat shield or custom enclosure may help this problem.

What it all comes down to is preference. Some people like the look of the expensive, or not so expensive intake systems. They look good under the hood and also sound good when you're driving. Others prefer practicality and ease of maintenance. That's the reason I use a drop in Tom's Filter. It also cuts down on exhaust noise so you don't draw extra attention from the police. However, it won't draw attention under your hood because you still have the stock airbox. Many times people ask me, "Why haven't you got an intake?" I always tell them that the drop in filter is just as good.
Performance wise, they are almost the same. Other tests in Import Tuner have also confirmed this. This is just intended to help those who may be torn between getting an expensive intake system or getting a drop in replacement filter. If you want looks and attention, get an aftermarket intake. If you want to keep it simple and don't care about what it looks like, get a drop in filter.
Keep in mind that this article isn't referring to cold air intake systems, which do provide a larger performance increase.

Celica Generation 6 USDM Transmission Gear Ratios

2010-08-13T14:56:00.000+03:00

Here are the transmission ratios for the USDM '94-99 Toyota Celica ST and GT, and the Canadian GT-S.

Car	1st	2nd	3rd	4th	5th	Reverse	Differential Ratio
GT / GT-S (Manual)	3.285	1.960	1.322	1.028	.820	3.153	4.176
ST (Manual)	3.166	1.904	1.310	.969	.815	3.250	4.058
GT / GT-S (Auto)	2.810	1.549	1.000	.706	N/A	2.296	3.950
ST (Auto)	4.005	2.208	1.425	.981	N/A	3.272	2.821

Celica Generation 6 USDM Engine Specifications

2010-08-13T14:55:00.000+03:00

In the US and Canada, the '94-99 Celica was produced with one of two engines. The ST has the 7A-FE engine, while the GT and the Canadian GT-S have the 5S-FE engine in them. The ST's 7A-FE was modified slightly in 1996 to incorporate OBD II, which is a system to control the engine more completely, so that emissions are better. This change dropped the horsepower by 5 horsepower and increased the torque by 2 lbs.-ft. of torque. The specifications of these engines are below.

Engine:	5S-FE	7A-FE
Cylinders:	4	4
Displacement:	2.2 liters	1.8 liters
Type:	DOHC	DOHC
Horsepower:	135@5400 RPM¹	110@5600 RPM²
Torque:(lbs.-ft.)	145@4400 RPM	115@2800 RPM³
Forced Induction:	None	None

¹ - In California, the 5S-FE only produces 130 hp@5400 due to emission restrictions.
² - In 1996 and 1997, the 7A-FE only produces 105 hp@5200 rpm.
³ - In 1996 and 1997, the 7A-FE produces 117 lbs.-ft. of torque@2800 rpm.

Differences between the North American GT and ST Models

2010-08-13T14:42:00.000+03:00

There are many differences between the North American GT model and the ST model of the sixth generation Toyota Celica. This article will list all of the differences, and highlight many of the similarities of the two models.
Both models were introduced to the market as a 1994 model. The ST is less inexpensive, and the GT is more expensive. The convertible body style of the Celica was only available as the GT model. Production of the ST model was stopped in 1997, so in 1998 and 1999, only the GT model was produced in the United States.
{AD} If you don't know if you have a GT or an ST, the easiest way to check is to look at the chassis code. You'll find this if you open your hood and look at the firewall, which is the back wall of the engine bay, closest to the cabin of your car. It's a combination of letters and numbers that starts with "AT", or "ST" that's engraved into the metal of your firewall. If this combination says "AT200", then you have a ST, and if it says "ST204", then you have a GT. If you have anything besides "AT200" or "ST204", then you either live out of the United States or your car was imported from another country. You can click to find more information on sixth generation Celica chassis codes.

The engines of the two models are different. The ST model is powered by the 1.8 liter DOHC 7A-FE engine. This engine puts out 110 horsepower at 5600 rpm and 115 lb. ft. of torque at 2800 rpm in the 1994 and 1995 model years, and in the 1996 and 1997 model years, the engine puts out 105 horsepower at 5200 rpm and 117 lb. ft. of torque at 2800 rpm. The GT model of the sixth generation Celica is powered by the more powerful 5S-FE powerplant, which is a 2.2 liter DOHC engine. This engine puts out 135 horsepower at 5400 rpm, and 145 lb. ft. of torque at 4400 rpm in every state except for California, where the engine only puts out 130 horsepower due to emissions restrictions. Both engines produce fairly usable low end torque, with the GT producing more than the ST. Neither of them rev very high however, and are designed more with economy than performance in mind. Both engines, like nearly all Toyota engines, are very reliable and can withstand a lot and last for a long time.
The braking system on the two models is different as well. The GT model has four wheel disk brakes, with ventilated rotors up front and solid rotors on the rear. The ST model has ventilated disk brakes up front, but has rear drum brakes, which don't perform as well. Both models are available with ABS as an option.
The stock suspension systems of the two cars are the same. The GT and the ST share the same independent MacPherson strut suspension up front and the same dual-link independent MacPherson strut suspension in back. Both models have the same power rack and pinion steering system. The GT hatchback does has the option of having the Sports Package on it, which utilizes special shock absorbers with two-stage valves, which give the car better dampening force for better handling stability. The Sports Package is not available on the ST model.
The exterior of the two models are different as well. On the Toyota Celica ST, there isn't an emblem on the back of the car, but on the GT, there's an emblem labeling the car as a GT. On the 1996 and up years of the sixth generation Celica, the GT has standard fog lights, and the ST can have fog lights, but it's an optional feature. On the hatchback, the GT has a standard rear windshield wiper, and this feature is optional on the ST model. The stock wheels on the sixth generation Celica GT are 15 inches, while they're 14 inches on the ST model.
There are a few differences between the two models in the interior of the sixth generation Toyota Celica. The GT model comes with standard power windows and door locks, but these features are optional on the ST model. Also, the GT model is the only model with the option of leather-trimmed seats. Leather seats are not available on the ST model.

History and Basic Info About Celica generation 6

2010-08-13T14:41:00.002+03:00

In 1971, Toyota introduced the Celica in the US. Since then, the Celica has progressed, gradually becoming better and better. In October 8th, 1993, Toyota publicly unveiled the new sixth generation Celica. The sixth generation Celica featured strikingly beautiful curves, somewhat resembling the Celica's big brother, the Supra. The US only saw two models of the sixth generation Celica, the 1.8 liter 7A-FE powerd ST and the 2.2 liter 5S-FE powered GT. Gone were the mighty All-Trac and the GT-S. Canada recieved the GT-S in addition to the two other configurations.
In Europe and Japan and Australia, a sixth generation Celica GT-Four was offered. This car was powered by a 2.0 liter 3S-GTE turbocharged engine producing 239 horsepower in the European version and 251 horsepower in the Japanese version, pushing the car from 0-60 mph in just 6.1 seconds. The GT-Four also featured all wheel drive for outstanding handling and quick launches.

In 1994, the Celica was only available in coupe and hatchback form. Air bags were standard on all models, and anti-lock brakes were available on all as well. In 1995, Toyota introduced the convertible version of the sixth generation Celica. The Celica convertible was available only in GT form, and featured a power soft-top. The 1996 sixth generation Celica had the option for side skirts, and the front grill area of the car was redesigned to include optional driving lights, which were standard on GT models. In 1998, the ST model was no longer offered, and all new Celicas in the US were now GT models. In 1999, the coupe model was discontinued. In 2000, the seventh generation Celica was introduced in the US, replacing the sixth generation Celica.

Sixth Generation Celica Chassis Codes

2010-08-13T14:40:00.000+03:00

The chassis code on a sixth generation Celica can be used to identify what kind of Celica it is. It can be useful sometimes, because refering to Celicas simply by the type(GT, ST, etc.) can be misleading. For example, the USDM Celica GT is powered by the 135 horsepower 5S-FE engine, while the European Spec Celica GT is powered by the 180 horsepower 3S-GE engine. If you were on the phone with a tuner company in Europe and you just said "I drive a Celica GT.", and had them send you, say, a header for your car, then they might send you a header for a 3S-GE engine, which would not work for your car. This is why chassis codes are a better way to identify which kind of Celica you have.
The chassis code can be found under the hood on the firewall on sixth generation Celicas. It's a four to six character combination of letters and numbers. A couple example sixth generation chassis codes are AT200, ST202, and ST205.

{AD} The first character in a sixth generation Celica chassis code will either be an "A" or an "S". This letter represents the engine family of the car. "A" would be for the A family of engines, such as the 7A-FE, and "S" would be for the S family of engines, such as the 5S-FE and the 3S-GTE.
The second character represents if the car is front wheel drive or all wheel drive, or rear wheel drive. This character will be a "T" if the Celica is front wheel drive or all wheel drive, and an "A" for rear wheel drive Celicas. So for the sixth generation Celica, this character will always be a "T".
The third and fourth(Or just third for rear wheel drive Celicas) characters represent the Celica generation. For all sixth generation Celicas, this will be the number "20".
The fifth(Or fourth for rear wheel drive Celicas) character represents the type and engine of the Celica. Here are the codes for the sixth generation Celica:
0 - FWD - 7A-FE (USDM ST)
2 - FWD - 3S-GE / 3S-FE without AWS (JDM SS-I, SS-II, and SS-III)
3 - FWD - 3S-FE with AWS (European GT / JDM SS-I)
4 - FWD - 5S-FE (USDM GT / Canadian GT-S)
5 - AWD - 3S-GTE (European GT-4 / JDM GT-4)
The sixth character is only on sixth generation Celica convertibles, and it is a "C" representing that the car is a convertible.

Celica Gen 5 HIRO bodykit

2010-07-25T10:23:00.002+03:00

Celica Gen 5 HIRO bodykit

Notes:
Kit number
Components	Front Spoiler Rear Wing
Fits	ST183/ST184
Price	Front Spoiler ¥45000 Rear Wing ¥55,000
Contact:	http://www.hirojapan.com/

Celica Gen 5 GYALL bodykit

2010-07-25T10:22:00.002+03:00

Celica Gen 5 GYALL bodykit

Notes:
Kit number
Components
Fits	ST185?
Price
Contact (Phone):	027-353-1512 (Japan)

Celica Gen 5 Garage Cruise / Messiah bodykit

2010-07-25T10:21:00.003+03:00

Garage Cruise / Messiah

Notes:
Fits	ST182/ST183/ST185
Kit number	16779 Front Full Cowl ¥103000 16780 Front Grille ¥33500 16781 Side Step ¥83000 16782 Rear Roof Spoiler ¥53000 16783 Rear Apron ¥73000 16784 Rear Wing ¥70000
Contact:

Note: There seems to be a fair amount of confusion who makes this kit. The part numbers above are for the "Garage Cruise" kit from takakaira.com. I have also heard this kit referred to as a "Messiah" kit. This kit may also not be a widebodied Celica kit (as in the picture) and may just be a standard body kit as the price suggests.

Celica Gen 5 FX Designs bodykit

2010-07-25T10:21:00.000+03:00

Celica Gen 5 FX Designs bodykit

Notes:
Components	Front Bumper Side Skirts Rear Apron
Fits	hatchback (GT/ST)
Price	Front Bumper FX-402 $328US Side Skirts FX-303 $348US Rear Apron FX-304 $328US
Contact:	http://www.fxdesigns.com/

Celica Gen 5 EREBUNI bodykit

2010-07-25T10:19:00.000+03:00

Celica Gen 5 EREBUNI bodykit

Notes:
Kit number	Erebuni #233 (with 233GS & 233HS)
Components	Front Bumper Side Skirts Rear Apron
Fits	hatchback (GT/ST)
Price	Kit-$707.00 (US) Hood Scoop - $136 (US) Grill Insert - $137 (US)
Contact:	http://www.erebuni.net/

Race Celicas

2010-07-25T10:17:00.002+03:00

Race Celicas

Rod Millen's Pikes Peak Celica

Based off of the 6th Generation Celica body shell the Pikes Peak Celica has very little in common with a production Celica. From a 4 cylinder Toyota/TRD Racing engine to a carbon composite body shell, X-Trac transmission, to 4wd...the Celica is probably one of the most expensive, technologically advanced Celicas ever built. Although GT-4s were released overseas it is interesting that the Pikes Peak Celica isn't based off of the GT-4 design (note the hood differences). My speculation is that this is either due to an aerodynamic advantage or an engine design that eliminates the top mount intercooler. With an estimated 800HP on tap and a huge wing that keep the Celica firmly planted on the dirt, Rod Millen made several record shattering runs, including setting a Pikes Peak record that is still standing. Unfortunately, as Toyota moved out of WRC the Pikes Peak Celica was dropped in place of a Tacoma body shell. Toyota finally dropped the funding of the Pikes Peak Hill Climb all together in 2001.

Body Style	ST204 GT
Engine	TRD prepped 16 valve 2.1L turbocharged inline four
Suspension	Front:Double A-arm with pushrod and rocker, coil over suspension Rear: Double A-arm with coil over suspension
Wheels	American Racing 17" x 12.5" with BFGoodrich Experimental Comp T/A R1 P335/30ZR17 Tires
Brakes	Front: 14" Rear:13"
Dimensions	Weight:1950lbs Length: 178" Width: 76" Heighth: 46"

NHRA Celica

Introduced in 2002 the NHRA Celica is Toyota's venture into drag racing. Competing in the funny car class this car really has very little similar to a Celica besides the paint scheme. If you do consider this a "Celica" however this may be the most powerful Celica ever built. The supercharged, nitro-burning, tire-spinning stats put it at a whopping 6000+ HP. The NHRA Celica is capable of reaching speeds over 320mph with quarter mile times less than 5 seconds.

Nascar Celica

While not near the fastest, nor the most powerful, the Nascar Celica is certainly worth mentioning. Campaigning in the Goody's Nascar Series the Celica is a DOHC V6 racing comparably powered domestic V-8s. Introduced in the 6th generation body style the Celica can now be seen in the latest (7th Generation) body style. This series has been shown on the Speed channel...the Goody's series is a smaller scale than typical Nascar which races smaller circuits around the country. As of this update the Huffman Celica is number one in the standings. Toyota is now sponsoring two Goody's teams: Watson/Weaver Racing & Rob Huffman Racing.

Body Style	ST204(1999)/ST235(2000-current)
Engine	Toyota 5VZ 4.1L DOHC 24v V6, 300HP (carburated)
Suspension	Front:Double A-Arm, Coil Over Shocks Rear: 3-Link w/Panhard Bar, Coil Over Shocks
Wheels	American Racing 17" x 12.5" with BFGoodrich Experimental Comp T/A R1 P335/30ZR17 Tires
Brakes	Front: 12.5" x 1.25" Rear:11.5" x .75"
Dimensions	Weight:2750-2950lbs Length: 178.5" Width: 72.5" Heighth: 48.5"

The HKS Celica

The Celica which most likely owns has the title of worlds fastest Celica is the HKS drag Celica. Built by legendary Japanese drag builder HKS...the HKS Celica was built off of the AT200 (U.S. ST) chassis. The Celica was the first FWD car under the 10-second barrier. Note that this was all done WITHOUT using a tubular chassis. Details are of course still kept confidential, however what is known is that the Celica has a turbocharged four-cylinder engine perhaps an over bored 3S-GTE, or based off of a Toyota Racing Engine used in the Pikes Peak Celica...

Body Style	ST205 GT-4 (alltrac)
Engine	16 valve 2.0L 3S-GTE turbocharged inline four
Turbo	HKS GT3240 24.3pounds max boost

WRC Celica

In the late 1988-1996 Toyota won several WRC championships in a modified GT-4 Celica driven by Carlos Saintz. With an extremely modified engine, X-Trac transmission the Toyota Celica was always a contender throughout its WRC history winning 38 WRC Rallies and 2 WRC Championships.
Toyota began getting involved in WRC with the introduction of the Celica GT-4 (or All-Trac in the States) in 1988. With introduction of the GT-4 and sales of between 2500-5000 production versions worldwide a year Toyota was eligible to race in WRC. Toyota campaigned in both the 4, 5th and 6th Generation GT-4...however titles were won in the 5th generation Celica. The fifth generation car was perfect for rally at the time, however problems with the hood scoop aerodynamics forced a mid-generation addition of the Rally/Group A/RC edition. The Celica RC had a recessed hood vent instead of a hood scoop, and added an improved turbo and intercooler design.
The 6th generation was used only very briefly as teams saw little advantage in switching to a new body style. Teams were actually lobbying extensively to switch over to the Corolla. The Corolla, in driver's opinions, was a superior car for rally in that it was lighter and had a better view of the road. With the Corolla, Toyota did not see the success that it did with the Celica and ultimately pulled out of WRC in 1998 in favor of F1.

Celica Gen 5 PAKFEIFER bodykit

2010-07-20T13:16:00.002+03:00

Notes:
Kit number
Components	0440TATOCE901 front spoiler 0440TATOCE902 side skirts le+ri 0440TATOCE903 rear apron 044TACEAB2006 rear wing 3-pcs 044TACAB2006L rear wing 3-pcs with breaklight 0440TACE90904 rear wing Supra-Style
Fits	hatchback (GT/ST)
Price
Contact:	http://www.pakfeifer.at/

Celica Gen 5 CARCEPT bodykit

2010-07-20T13:15:00.001+03:00

Notes:
Kit	Carcept
Components	200100 front spoiler 200200 rear bumper 200300 side skirts 200500 roof spoiler 200400 trunk spoiler
Contact:	http://www.carcept.com/

Celica Gen 5 "Blitz-Style" bodykit

2010-07-20T13:13:00.002+03:00

The Blitz style kit is in development by Dan_93GT. The body kit will be for the '90-93 Celica ST/GT but should be able to be modified to fit the GTS/All-Trac models like other kits.
Update 02 Aug 03: Because of situations beyond my control, I have decided to go back to the original company that I was working with and just get the 10 people that I needed. The kit will still look the same as the pictures posted here, it will just be a bit cheaper for those people that decide to buy the first kits. Here is the rundown.

Kit price to first 10+ people:
$675 plus $20 handling (for box and packaging)

Kit price sold to public after the group buy:
$989

Shipping due upon delivery:
Continental U.S.- $80-120
Cananda- $350
U.K.- $500-600
Australia- Sorry guys, still looking into this one
*all prices are in U.S. Dollars*

This kit will be produced by www.bodykit.org . It will be organized in a group buy manner. This means that the money will be collected by me and put into an account until we have the proper amount of people. The money will then be sent to the company and the kits will be started. The kit will take 5-7 weeks to complete and 7-14 days for shipping to you. All of this info can be found on the company's website. Feel free to check everything out.

To be included in this groupd buy, send your money to:

Dan Villeneuve
2225 Greenridge Rd. Apt. 714
North Charleston, SC 29406

*All money sent to me must be in U.S. Dollars. I'd prefer payments be made via money order. (total $695 shipping paid upon arrival)*

Send an email (danvilleneuve@earthlink.net) before money is sent to this address so that I will be expecting it.

If you have any questions feel free to contact me via email: danvilleneuve@earthlink.net Kit prices:
Full kit (4 piece) $750.00 + shipping (U.S.)
Front bumper only $375.00 + shipping (U.S.)

Celica Gen 5 AMAZON bodykit

2010-07-20T13:12:00.002+03:00

Notes:
Kit number
Components	Front Spoiler with DTM Splitter and Mesh Rear Bumper with Diffusers and Mesh 1 Pair Side Skirts Kit Wheel Arches
Fits	T18
Price
Distibutor:	http://www.autostyling.uk.com/toyota.html

Add led stripes to Toyota Celica

2010-07-11T13:55:00.000+03:00

And at night

My Toyota Celica gen 5 winter photo set

2010-07-11T13:39:00.001+03:00

Very cold and snowy winter has my celica ;)

Pioneer TS-W307D2 + Ground Zero GZUA 1.1000DX in Toyota Celica

2010-07-11T12:20:00.000+03:00

Pioneer TS-W307D2 + Ground Zero GZUA 1.1000DX in Toyota Celica. Nice system and bass are great!

latvian toyota celica carlos sainz

2010-02-22T11:11:00.000+02:00

Toyota Celica destruction

2010-02-22T11:09:00.000+02:00

Toyota Celica Images Set 3

2009-12-05T18:42:00.000+02:00

Toyota Celica Gen 5 V8 monster + video

2009-12-05T18:36:00.001+02:00

It's just a brief clip of a 5th Gen Celica that has a 1UZ (Lexus SC400 V8) and RWD converstion. This thing is N to the A to the STY!!!!

Toyota Celica Images Set 2

2009-12-05T18:28:00.000+02:00

Toyota Celica Images Set

2009-12-05T18:16:00.001+02:00

2002 Toyota Celica GT - Fast, Cool, and Furious

2009-11-29T13:09:00.000+02:00

My car is a 2002 Toyota Celica GT. I bought it brand new back in the summer of 2002; a long time ago, but only if you measure it in terms of years. It had just come off the assembly line, and it cost just under $20,000. It is a 1.8-liter, automatic transmission, power
windows/locks/everything car. It gets about 35 or more miles to the gallon depending on where I drive it. For all sporty/compact cars released in 2002, it ranked second, in overall safety, only behind the Subaru WRX. In addition to all these technical specs, the car just plain looks cool.

Flashback to 2002. I needed a new car. I wanted something that offered everything from value to safety to power to the always desired coolness factor. My first, and only, choice was to search for a Celica. I went to a few Pittsburgh area Toyota dealerships but couldn't find a Celica in the color I wanted (black). Most Toyota dealerships will have a few dozen of each model (Avalon, Camry, Highlander, Corolla and Land Cruisers), but only about two Celicas on the lot. (They can be tough to find in your specific color and/or transmission type but don't give up.) I didn't want to settle for a silver one and didn't want to wait a few weeks for a black one to come in. I also didn't want to spend an extra $6000 to get a GTS model. The salesman said the only difference between the GT and the GTS was some horsepower, engine size, and the $6000. It is not worth it. My GT will top nearly 140 MPH, the GTS will hit about 150. That is not worth $6000. So on I searched.

Eventually I found what I wanted, but with a twist. It wasn't black, it just looked black. The official name of the car's color is Cobalt Blue. At first glance it looks black, but under certain lighting or conditions, the car has a dark blue tint to it. It is so cool. Plus it is incredibly rare. It is the toughest color to get on the Celica. I had to have it.

I brought my brother/former car salesman from L.A. with me to negotiate. The dealer got incredibly mad at us after we kept rejecting his offer and said "do better" about five times. NOTE - -They will do better, just stay confident and persistent. I
eventually got it for a few hundred dollars over invoice. They usually get a few thousand over invoice for Celicas.

I had it for only four weeks when I took it on a cross-country road trip. I put over 7000 miles on the car in the first 30 days. While driving through such wonderful and beautiful states as South Dakota (best drivers in the country), Wyoming, Montana, and Idaho, I had the cruise control set at about 95 MPH and was shocked at the gas mileage I was getting. I was averaging over 40 miles per gallon on the Interstate. That is a great feature of this car. Going over 500 miles in between fill-ups is great, considering that some areas had 100 mile stretches between service.

The car is also fast, very fast, not land-speed record fast, but fast enough. Who really needs a car that goes over 200 MPH? Danica Patrick, that's who. The fastest I have had the car is about 115 MPH, although at 115 MPH it becomes quite obvious that it will go much much faster if you want it to. It also becomes quite obvious that the blur hiding behind the cactus, in the middle of the California desert, is a cop. Power is not a problem with this car, only fear of being arrested will restrain you.

The car is also very comfortable. The standard seats are softer and roomier than many reviewers state. I am 6'4" and I do not have any comfort issues in the car, unless I tried (haven't yet) to sit in the back 'seat'. It's actually less of a seat and more of a place to hold your cds and small things like a pen or two, but not three. Recently I had my three year old nephew (in his car seat) in the back 'seat' and the passenger seat still had to be moved all the way up to the glove compartment for it to fit. But then this isn't a family car.

As for safety, it comes standard with driver and passenger side airbags. It was given the second highest rating among small (sporty, compact) cars released in 2002, trailing only the Subaru WRX in overall safety. That's good to know the next time you're cruising along at 100 MPH with any small, sporty car coming at you (except the WRX).

As for value, this is where it can really separate itself from the pack. The car still holds over 60% of its original cost. I could get about $15,000 out of it today if I wanted to sell it, which I don't. Why would I? It fits my needs. My girlfriend
and I drove it across country and fit everything we needed, for a month long journey, into its limited space. On top of everything else, it just looks cool as hell. I get compliments on it all the time. People always turn and stare. If you want to be noticed, you will. We only go through life once, why not do it in the best muscle to come out of Japan since Godzilla?

By Jason Lindholm

Car Reviews: 2004 Toyota Celica

2009-11-29T13:05:00.000+02:00

A Long Running Sports Coupe, but How Does it Rate?

Although luxury sedans and SUVs all have their time and place, sometimes a person just wants to drive a car which is fun and entertaining. When that time comes, it seems that a large, top heavy nine passenger car or a sluggish family sedan simply won't do the job. In days past, when it
came to driving fun, many turned to two door sports coupes such as the Acura Integra, Volkswagen Corrado, Toyota MR2, and the such. However, it seems that the market for such vehicles has greatly declined. While many of the aforementioned sports coupes have faded from the market as a whole, a select few still remain, and those that do are manufactured to a new quality standard and must be prepared for the brutal competition and comparison that goes on with the few remaining vehicles on the market. Although the 2003 Toyota Celica may be one of the few left standing, that does not mean that it is the single best choice for buyers.

Perhaps one of the strongest things that the Celica has going for it is the exterior appearance. The car really looks like nothing else on the market. The body lines are simply superb, and the small, low-profile hood scoops and aggressive front end make a stand out impression without making the vehicle look like a joke. Although the square tail lights may sound strange in conception, they work great with the overall design concept of the vehicle. Although the Celica does sit a bit too high to look truly intimidating, the outward of the appearance is far better than previous generations, and potential buyers can rest assured that the car will make an impression wherever it is parked. The Celica manages to stride the line of looking sporty without looking ridiculous and childish at the same time.

Although this may sound like an exaggeration, the interior of the Celica still looks amazing, even four years after the car was made. There's just something about the way in which Toyota set everything up that seems to make it work so well for the driver. From the comfortable leather
seats (on the GT-S version) to the short shift and sporty steering wheel, everything about the interior of the Celica simply seems to be geared towards a fun driving experience. The entire interior comes together to make a great car and a really enjoyable driving experience. Even eight years after it was made, the interior of the Celica still has the potential to impress, and impress it does, and likely still will for years to come. Although their may not be a whole lot of interior space, it is unlikely that many were considering the Celica as a family car anyway.

While the 2004 Celica definitely looks great, both from the outside and the inside, perhaps the only area to suffer is the actual performance aspects of the vehicle. Of course, the Celica does have it's finer points, and this one of the best handling vehicles that one can get for such a good price. The car hugs tight corners and highway lanes equally well, and the low, wider stance of the car definitely inspires confident driving on a number of levels. However, the one thing about the Celica which may not inspire a lot of confidence is it's acceleration and overall power. Although the sports oriented GT-S model, equipped with a 6-speed manual transmission and roughly 180 horse power manages to be a rocket when needed, the engine still needs to be taken to the redline to get any power out of the car. As is common on many vehicles, the automatic transmission robs the vehicle of any possible power, and the Celica especially falls victim to this trap. Although the standard engine in the GS model makes 140 horse power, it feels to be around 100 with the automatic transmission. For those who want to get some performance from their vehicle, make sure to find a model with a manual transmission. Thankfully, the manual transmission is simply a joy to drive. The stock short throw shifter and snappy clutch make going through the gears an incredibly enjoyable experience, and one that few cars in such a price range can hope to offer.

Although the Celica may have it's flaws, as done any vehicle, there can be no arguing that it is a sharp looking car, and one that definitely has the potential for some performance fun. Although those looking for acceleration that is anywhere near reasonable are going to want to go with one of the models equipped with a manual transmission. Even with the problems accelerating, the Celica is one of the best driving vehicles in it's class, and the long running reliability of Toyota, not to mention the great gas mileage make sure that the Celica is a sure winner.

1972 LT

2009-11-23T17:17:00.000+02:00

This is my 1972 Toyota Celica ta22 that I built with my dad I have made a few mods. This photo is about a year old but it is finished now and looks heaps better. I have not taken a photo of what it looks like now, it is a one of a kind. I have a 2tg with electronic distributor that was custom made by national mobile which prevents points jump and misfires at high rpm, they spent a lot of time on just the distributor.

Daniel-son

Toyota Celica 1971 LT

2009-11-23T17:14:00.004+02:00

Model : 1971 LT ( made Nov 71 )
Motor: 2T-B - ported , and bored out (de tuned drag motor) Genie Extractors, Stock carb - but soon to have 32/36 Weber Current Stock cam - though this will also be replaced.
Exhaust system: 2.5 inch straight system , Genie Extractors, and a single Lukey sports muffler ( if it growls - its a lukey )
Interior: Re trimmed Dash pad , original carpets Prelude bucket seats and sports steering wheel Original rear seat in excellent condition.
Suspension + brakes : Stock brakes , Monroe Gas GT sports shock absorbers These will be replaced in time with vented rotors up front , Pedders shocks all round and king springs - Also will be investigating Kmac swaybars.
Wheels: Speedy 14x7 Steel mags ( being replaced with Minilite 14x6's and 195/55's all round
Stereo: Clarion CD player - Phillips 6 inch Splits, Clarion 6x9'sIm the 3rd owner since new .
Currently near the end of being restored, few more rust spots to be cleaned up - then it will be resprayed in hot chilli red (when budget allows)
I'm aiming to build a quick single cam Celica - within a tight budget - and so far i am succeeding ..With the carby in place - and the cam soon to go in - my projects nearing the end :)

Toyota Celica 1971 ST

2009-11-23T17:13:00.001+02:00

Mitsuko and I are from Jacksonville, NC.
The Celica was purchased in 1981 by me and my wife on the island of Okinawa, Japan. It boasted a black interior and manufacturer’s specifications as you have listed on your website. We paid $900 for it and kept it in excellent condition. Due to my service rotation back to the Continental United States I had to sell because I could not afford to have the car shipped. I don’t know if the car is around and running anymore.
A word for the wise: If you have one of these gems, hang onto them!

Toyota Celica 1970 GT

2009-11-23T17:11:00.001+02:00

Joji from the USA is the proud owner of this GT Celica. Check out the Vin number, cool stuff.

The fifth Celica ever made!!

Keep up the great work Joji.

Toyota Celica 2.0 GTI

2009-11-10T10:13:00.001+02:00

91 Celica GT + 95 240sx = Fun

2009-11-10T10:08:00.002+02:00

91 Celica GT + 95 240sx = Fun

1992 Toyota Celica Test Drive

2009-11-10T10:03:00.002+02:00

1992 Toyota Celica Test Drive

91 Celica 5SFE Seafoam

2009-11-10T09:44:00.001+02:00

91 Celica 5SFE Seafoam

Toyota Celica st184 91 3s-gte

2009-11-10T09:42:00.002+02:00

A 91 celica st184 with 3sgte swap, quick video nothing too fancy

Toyota Celica Generation 7 Photos Part 3

2009-10-25T18:14:00.000+02:00

Celica Club of Latvia 2009

2009-10-24T16:52:00.002+03:00

Summer season closening in Latvia.

Toyota Celica Drifting

2009-10-24T16:48:00.000+03:00

Crashed celica while doing some slides on wet tarmac. The rear hub and arms needed to be replaced and wheels too.

Toyota Celica Generation 7 Photos Part 2

2009-10-24T16:35:00.000+03:00

Toyota Celica Generation 7 Photos

2009-10-24T16:24:00.000+03:00

Toyota Celica Short Shift Lever

2009-09-24T17:08:00.002+03:00

Modify the stock stick. No cost!
Result of mod: lower shift knob height. Shift throw is quicker.
*If you replace the seat-ring, it will be tighter too.
*To get the seat-ring, call Jeff Watson 1-800-327-2087,
*tell him you want the "green truck shifter gasket".
*You should ask for the "white bushing for the pivot".
Remove the black dash center cover around the stereo etc.

Remove 4 screws to remove the metal-covered rubber boot at the base of the stick.
Pull the rubber boot off.
There is a ring holding it onto the neck, pull hard, it comes off.
You don't have to remove the ring.

Remove the next wide rubber cover over the base.
Lift the small center rubber cap at the base of the stick.
Remove 4 screws at the base of the stick.
Remove the stick from the socket.

Now we'll break the stick apart.
Take two vise grips. Make them extra tight.
Place one at the lower silver metal shaft.
Place the other on the black stick.
Twist back n forth with strong force.
You have to break a strong rubber filling in between the two shafts.
It's a springy feel on most sticks.
On some cars, the rubber is very solid, a torch can melt it soft for the removal.

After you snap the rubber, remove the upper shaft.
*Replace the white bushing on the bottom of the stick.
*Replace the black ring in the shifter base with the green one.
(* parts from Jeff Watson, see above.)
Reinstall the stick, plates, and all boots.
You'll need shift knob similar to a MOMO which
does not use threads, it uses 3 set screws.
The rubber cap needs to be inside the knob.
Just set the thread collar, the knob, tighten the set
screws, screw on the collar and voila! Set the leather bag,
it'll have alot of folds in it now.

The height is very similar to a MkIV. I love that! The throw feels
similar, with a little more notch feel. The rubber core of the long
stick had dampened the notches and vibration.

I hated that long gawky stick. This is so sweet!
I'm glad it did not cost a $200-$300 short shift kit!

Oh, it looks like there's no going back to a long stick, the rubber is broken.

The Celica & Supra Story

2009-09-24T17:04:00.000+03:00

The origin of the Celica dates back to 1970, when the first Celica was introduced into the Japanese auto market. Toyota, known for its reliable, basic transportation, felt that its position was strong enough for it to offer its first sporty model. The Japanese economy was strengthening, and with it, the desire to drive something more exciting than the traditional, spartan Japanese automobile. This new attitude by Toyota was reflected first in 1967, with the 2000GT, a swoopy sports car built for Toyota by Yamaha. Featured in a contemporary James Bond film, the 2000GT, with its DOHC inline-6, would later become the inspiration for the Supra (the 2000GT name was also used on later Japanese Celicas and Supras) . As a sidenote, the legendary Datsun 240Z appeared in the same time frame, and may actually have been designed on the same concept as the 2000GT.

In 1971, the first Celica STs arrive in America, powered by 1.9 liter 8R-C SOHC four cylinder. A four-speed manual is the only transmission option. For '72, the larger 18R-C engine replaces the original, but the lowered compression ratio due to new emissions requirements results in an 11-horsepower loss. A three speed automatic is now available. During the 70s, sexy styling, reminiscent of early Ford Mustangs, and an eager four-cylinder enable the Celica, along with the Corolla, to solidify Toyota's position in the American market. Fun to drive, and reliable to boot, the Celica is a success.

In 1974, the GT model is introduced, with the most significant differences being in styling and suspension. By '75, the 18RC engine gives way to the 20R, a redesigned R-series motor that displaces 2.2 liters. Motor Trend magazine honors the 1976 Celica, naming it the "Import Car of the Year." A newcomer to the '76 lineup is the GT Liftback, the first hatchback Celica. With its obvious ponycar influences, these cars are generally known as the "Mustang-back Celicas." 1978 sees a new bodystyle introduced, with wide, prominent B-pillers. Motor Trend again honors the Celica. The next year, the Celica Supra is introduced. The original Supra was the first Toyota to receive EFI. Its 2.6 liter inline-6 engine produced 110 horsepower, 20 more than the GT, but the additional weight of the engine offset much of this gain. Supra features include a lengthened chassis and a grille reminiscent of the original 2000GT. In 1980, the Celica was again redesigned, with a different front-end treatment. For '81, a bored-out 2.4 liter version of the 20R, the 22R, was put in the ST and GT. The Celica Supra also received a new engine in 1981, the 5ME, the only year of its production.
As years go, 1982 was quite a busy one for Toyota engineers! All Celica models were redesigned, and a new engine was available for the Supra. The Celica received a very boxy look that is still very much popular today, and pop-up headlights (which more lay back than pop anywhere!) were introduced. The Supra received its own distinctive front end (with real pop-up headlights, and the 5ME gained another cam and became the 5MGE. Horsepower jumped from a meager 116 to 145, and the extra cam allowed the redline to be moved a little further up. Independent rear suspension also became a Supra trademark. Supra enthusiasts often refer to this car as the Mark II. The Supra is now built as "the" Toyota performance model, and is an absolute delight to drive!
Late in 1982, a new Celica debuts, the GT-S, which possesses the Supra's IRS and larger wheels. Visually, the GT-S is set apart from the GT by its prominent flared fenders and the nicer Supra interior. Originally, the GT-S is available as a "Sport" option on the GT, and does not have a "GT-S" badge until 1984. For 1983, the new GT-S and the GT both receive the 22RE 4-cylinder, with 105 horses thanks to EFI. A slightly redesigned front end for 1984's Celica increases the car's sex appeal dramatically, and the cars are selling exceptionally well, even with the mandatory $2000 price increase forced on Japanese cars by the American government. The ST receives the 22RE motor, and the Supra's motor keeps getting more power. A new, fully electronically controlled automatic transmission (ECT) is available on the Supra. A switch allows the driver to select normal and sport shift modes. 1984 sees the Supra reach 60mph in 8.6 seconds from a standstill. Minor brake light and interior changes distinguish the '84-'85 Celica and '84-'86 Celica Supra. Also, the first Celica convertible is offered from the factory in '85 - a company called Sunchaser had done conversions on a small scale for several years prior.

In 1986, Toyota decided to split the Supra off from the Celica line, resulting in two distinct lines: the Celica and the Supra. The Celica is new from the ground up, now being front-wheel drive. Three engines are available, from the single cam 2S-E to the racing-bred 3S-GE. The car looks much different, also, with a less distinct "boxiness" and a much smaller appearence. A new engine line, the S-series, replaces the original R-series as the Celica power plant.
The 1986 Supra is a carry-over from 1985, the only difference being the added third brakelight. The third-generation Supra, labeled a 1986 and a half, is a swoopy car with obvious supercar influence, and the new, 200hp 7MGE to back up the image. The Supra Turbo debuts a year later, giving the Supra a lustful 230hp to play with. Toyota decides to change the Supra's image from being Toyota's competitor against the Camaro to that of the Corvette-killer. This policy will later result in notable increases in performance and price. As prices increase, sales will suffer (see 1996).
Little changes in the Celica lineup for most of the remainder of the '80s. The car will be given slight makeovers (esp. the GTS) that will enhance its looks.
1988 witnesses the advent of the Celica All-Trac Turbo. An all-out wild ride, Toyota engineers gave this Celica AWD so it could handle the turbo's force. This was done because of the need to handle the 200hp motor. Not to mention this achieved awesome traction...
A smooth, clean look describes the new-for-1990 Celica. Rounded fenders and edges make the Celica arguably the most beautiful high-production car of the early 1990s. The 5S-FE engine, shared with the more sedate Camry, is standard on the GT and GT-S and produces 135hp, while the ST's 7A-FE churns out 115hp, most of it low in the rpm range, making the car surprisingly quick off the line. The Celica looks good, is quick, and sells well. The All-Trac Turbo (aka GT-4 to the rest of the world) is the rowdy one in the family, with its awesome turbo power (200hp, 16-valve 3S-GTE) and full-time all-wheel drive. The All-Trac burns the 1320 in the upper 14s...not bad for a 2.0L four-banger!o Competition begins to stiffen against the Celica as the Probe/MX-6, Talon/Eclipse/Laser, Saturn SC2, and Z24 crowd into the market, with the Acura Integra becoming the Celica's arch-nemesis. However, the Celica still holds a favorable spot in a popular segment.

The Supra is not offered in 1992, as it is redone for 1993. Its trademark hideaway headlights are gone, but no one will miss them now that the Turbo is now the Twin Turbo, giving 320hp. A Borg-Warner 6-speed manual transmission is available, as well as a 5-speed automatic. Sales are low and prices high: Twin Turbos go for well over $50,000. Performance is also high: zero to 60mph are around 5.3 seconds and afterwards pretty much becomes a blur - prompting one famous racer to proclaim the Supra "pure adrenaline attached to a license plate!"
Following Toyota's four-year-cycle, the 1994 Celica assumes a new look and the GTS model is dropped. Also gone are the hideaway headlights, eschewed in favor of four round, individual headlights. The result is somewhat akin to the result of breeding experiments between the Acura Integra and the Porsche 911.

In 1996, there was much doubt as to the continued existence of the Supra. Only about 40 per month were being imported into the United States, barely double the meager 21/month to Europe. Other Japanese legends, such as the Nissan 300ZX, Mazda RX-7, and the Dodge Stealth had been discontinued. Whereas they had once been affordable fun ("pocket rockets"), they had become over-optioned and over-priced, these once-popular cars beyond the reach of those who yearned for them. Japanese automakers learned too late that people who pay Corvette prices have dreamed of buying one since playing with Hot Wheels, and that their cars, while superior in many, many respects, were largely ignored by that market. In addition, the market has turned away from these awesome cars, towards SUVs and minivans.

Towards the end of 1996, however, Toyota announced that the Supra would live on. It would lose some of its glitz, they said, becoming a more "back to the basics" sports car, a step in the right direction. Prices have been slashed to the upper thirties for the Twin Turbo, a drop of about $12,000. In addition, all 1997 "15th Anniversary" Supras come standard with the huge wing formerly reserved only for Turbo models. With the Anniversary models, it seems as if the company has forgotten that the '79-'81 models existed for some reason or another.
Amid much speculation and rumor, the next-generation Celica is expected to debut sometime in 1998. Apparently, Toyota had been originally considering changing to a front engine/rear drive format in order to make the car more performance-oriented (as Nissan will do with the next-generation Maxima). These plans were scrapped after research found that the largely female buyers have negative preconceptions of rear-wheel-drive cars as dangerous and evil-handling. One rumor that refuses to go away is that of a V6 model being included in the lineup, which would be a break from Celica tradition, but would probably help sales. Finally, a limited-edition, all-wheel-drive, turbo model (GT4/All-trac) is believed to be once again in the offering. Whether or not it will make it to US shores is another question. Here is a possibility of the '99:

According to Toyota USA's website, it seems as though the next Celica, which was slated for 1998, is having preproduction problems and will not be seen until apparently April 1999. For '98, Toyota will continue making the current Celica, although it will only be available as the GT, no STs will be made. Maybe this is the reason Toyota hasn't called me up yet to go behind the scenes for an exclusive test-drive of the new models (hint hint wink wink nudge nudge), so I can't tell you much more. As for speculation, I'm hoping Toyota gives us a magical motor with variable valve-timing (VVTi), like on the Supra and GS400, something to keep those Integras at bay. If how well a job Lexus did with the GS400 is any indication of the enthusiast-minded cars coming from Toyota soon, I think we'll see quite a few 1999 Celicas on the road next year!

Toyota Celica Generation 6 images Part 2

2009-09-15T15:43:00.003+03:00

Toyota Celica Generation 6 images

2009-09-15T15:32:00.003+03:00

Celica-Club Video November, 11th, 2005

2009-09-08T18:42:00.000+03:00

Toyota Celica GT AT - 100km/h - 7sec

2009-09-08T18:40:00.003+03:00

Tuning Toyota Celica Kemerovo

2009-09-08T18:40:00.001+03:00

toyota Celica vs. Lancer

2009-09-08T18:38:00.001+03:00

Toyota Celica vs. Octavia (Street Race)

2009-09-08T18:37:00.001+03:00

Toyota Celica GT ZZT230 0 - 100 km/h

2009-09-08T18:35:00.000+03:00

Toyota Celica Turbo

2009-09-08T18:26:00.002+03:00

Toyota Celica Burnout

2009-09-08T18:21:00.001+03:00

How to Install an Aftermarket Tachometer on Toyota Celica

2009-09-05T13:51:00.000+03:00

Installing a tachometer is very simple. It consists ot 2 simple steps: mounting and wiring. Both can be very tricky if you're unsure about what you're doing. These instructions are for any 90-93 Toyota Celica. Other Toyota vehicles may be similar.

Tools needed:

Screwdriver (standard and Philips)
Wire cutter
Razor blade
Drill
Drill bits

Materials needed:

2 #8-32 x 1" bolts
2 #8-32 wing nuts

Step 1: Mounting
I didn't mount my tachometer on the left side because there is a vent I would end up drilling through. Instead, I mounted my tachometer in the center of the car to the right of the driver. The mounting instructions are for those who wish to mount their tachometer in the center of the car.

Pull out the center vent. Unplug the clock and the hazard plugs. You will be drilling three holes: 2 for the mounting screws and one for the wiring. Simply drill 2 holes large enough for the bolts to fit through and one hole large enough for 4 wires to fit through. You'll have to drill at an angle since the windshield is in the way. Mount the tachometer to your liking.

Step 2: Wiring
On the back of the tachometer, there are 6 wires: green, red, black, white, brown, and orange. Clip the brown and orange wires. Look at the back of the clock plug; there are 4 wires. You only need to be concerned about the gray, green, and white/black wire. Splice into each wire as follows:
Power: red on tach --> gray on clock plug
Ground: black on tach --> white/black on plug
Illumination: white on tach --> green on plug
Tach wire: green on tach --> black wire ON IGNITER
Under the dash, above the steering column, there is a brass-colored fitting that hides a hole in the firewall. Simply route the green tach wire through the hole and into the engine bay. If you have an aftermarket electronic ignition, such as MSD, GM, HEI, or Crane, connect the tach wire to the tach terminal.

Toyota Celica Custom Grill

2009-09-05T13:50:00.000+03:00

Materials:
1. Wire mesh or screen
2. Metal clips (optional)
3. Socket wrench with size 10mm(metric) socket
4. Phillps screw driver (+)
5. Flat screw driver (-)
6. Wire Cutters
7. Epoxy (super glue)
8. Wax paper-for the glue
9. Toothpick-for appling the glue

Step 1: Taking off your bumper:
The first step to making your grill is removing the bumper off the front of your car. There are 13 bolts and 4 plastic push screws. First, remove your side marker lights and turn signals. After those are off the car, lift up the hood of your car and then raise your head lights (turn your lights switch all the way on-3 clicks- and then turn it back 2 clicks or to where all the lights are off but the headlights are still in the upright position. There is a plastic fin that hides the 5 bolts on top of the bumper. Take you phillips head screw driver and remove the three (3) bolts and then the fin comes off by pulling towards you. Now, you have the bolts in sight. There are 2 in front of the right head light, 1 in the center in front of the hood lock and then 2 more on the left side in front of the left headlight. Remove all those and put them in a safe place or in a plastic bag. Now that those bolts are gone, lay on your back and look under the cars front bumper. There are 6 bolts that hold the bottom on. Take your socket wrench and remove the 6 bolts. Ok 11 down and 2 to go. On the sides of the car where the side marker lights go, there will be 1 bolt on either side, right behind where the marker light goes. Remove the 2 remaining bolts. Now, you have all the bolts off and you are ready to take off the 4 plastic locking bolts or screws. They are in the center of the car in the middle of the bumper. They are black and you will need to pry them out with your flat blade screw driver. They pop right out. Just stick the screw driver under the black plastic you see and the work the parts right out.
Now, the bumper will come off by pulling out and up on it. Just work it out off the car without forcing it. Now that you have your bumper off, you can cut your grill mesh or screen.

Step 2: Cutting the shape of your grill:
Take your screen or mesh and then cut it so it will fit in the area of the bumper. Cut it larger than the actual size that the grill will be. Make sure that you have enough room to fasten the wire screen to the back of the bumper. After you have the basic shape of the wire. Place it in or on the back of the bumper. Make sure it fits and you dont have any sharp edges sticking out. Bend the edges of the wire around the sides of the holes in the bumper. Take your metal clips and then fasten the wire to the bumper. That will give it a better hold and will ease gluing the rest of the wire.

Step 3: Gluing your grill to the bumper:
Now that you have dry fitted the grill, it is time to glue it and make it stay permanently. Mix your epoxy well and then apply it to the center of the grill. Make a decent area of glue so the wire will stick and have a good "foundation." Work your way to either sides of the grill with the glue. Make sure that you have applied the glue well enough so that the grill won't come loose when you are driving. You dont want to have to take the bumper off again. ***Let the glue dry for an hour or two.*** After you let the bumper sit, test the grill by pressing on it gently and then firmer. If the grill is strongly in place, you have done well. If it is real loose, then apply more glue and let it dry. After the grill is firmly in place, it is back to the car is goes.

Step 4: Re-placing the bumper on the car:
Reverse step 1 and put the bumper back on:
1. Slide the bumper back onto the car until the holes on the top of the bumper line up with the ones on the car frame.
2. Replace the bolts onto the car and then proceed in putting the plastic bolts back on.
3. After all the bolts are in place, replace the fin and then screw the 3 screws back in . Put the side marker lights and the trunsignals back on the car.

Then you are FINISHED!!!!!!!

You have successfully made a custom grill that looks great!

Toyota Celica Fog Light Re-Wiring

2009-09-05T13:48:00.002+03:00

Splicing Wires:
Take both wires you are going to splice together and cut off about 1/4 to 1/2 an inch of the sheething, then twist the 2 parts of exposed wire together and wrap them in electrical tape. You can also use the crimping connectors, just strip 1/4 inch of the sheething and put it into the connector, then squeeze tightly with plyers, then do the same for the 2nd wire. this prevents the wires from comming apart and also prevents them from touching anyhting that can cause a short. if using these connectors, i would recommend(since the wire is so thin) to cut the sheething off to about an inch, and fold it over 1/2 way to give the connector something bigger to crimp down on. just make sure no expesed wire is sticking out of the connector.

Tools:
1. wire cutters.
2. flat head screw driver.
3. wire strippers, wire cutters work if your careful.
4. A 6 foot piece of wire, 14 guage wire should be fine, as long as it is not solid.
5. Electrical tape (or crimping connectors, i would not use wire nuts, they may rattle around and may noise.
6. Fuse puller (located in main fuse box near battery in engine compartment)
7. Straightened coat hanger (optional, not needed)

WARNING: Do not have the car running while working with electrical components. Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery to be safe.

Step 1: You want me on my hands an knees? (Locate and remove the Fog Light Relay):
The relay is on the passanger side kick panel. You may have to move the plactic covering to get to it, it should bend out of the way easily. Then, pry out the relay holder with the flat head screw driver.

Step 2: "Wire 3a is..." *SHOCK!* "HOT!" (The wiring):
Take the thinner red and white wire that is connected to the relay. It is the one that if closest to the frnt of the car when the relay holder is in the white housing. Cut the wire about 2 inches from the end of the relay holder(see above picture) and tape off the longer piece of wire, it is no longer needed.
Now, take a piece of wire(5 to 6 feet long) and attach it to the thin red and white wire.(see bottom of page for how to attach 2 wires together) Run that wire to the driver side kick panel, and keep it out of sight and away from where your feet wil touch it, especially on the drivers side. the coat hanger can be used to pull it through the center consol, but you can pull out the carpeting and reach your arms through.

^ New wire (green) with relay unmounted, --- New wire (white) with relay mounted ^

Step 3: Do I look good in this? (How do you want your fogs to come on?):
You have a choice here, they can come on when:

1. You turn the key to ON (the only exterior lights that will be on are your fog lights)
or...
2. When you put the parking lights on (Fog lights will turn on when you have the tail lights on(parking lights, they will work when the headlights are on as well)

You decide this, and follow the rest of the instructions.

Step 4: Seeking Therapy (more electrical work):
Now that you decided how you want your fog lights to come one, find the black cover over the fuses in the driver side kick panel. Then pull one of these 2 fuses out and attach the wire you jut ran to either of the 2 legs on the fuse:

1. Fuse # 2 (top row, middle fuse)
or...
2. Fuse # 9 (bottom row, third fuse)

Now that the wire is wrapped around one of the fuse legs, take the fuse and put it back into its holder with the wire at the top, commin out to the side. The Fuse will not go in completly, because the wire is preventing it from doing so, but it is in enough and is being held firmly in place, it should not come out on its own. You may want to put electrical tape over the fuses to hold it in place as a safety precaution. Make sure there are NO exposed wires anywhere. A wire could touch another wire or ground surface and cause a short.

Step 5: Does this make my ass look big? (Testing):
Reconnect your battery if you disconnected it, and turn off the fog light switch. Turn the car to ON, turn off the radio, if you wired it to fuse #2, press the fog light switch and you will hear a click from the fog light relay(on the passanger side). If you wired it to fuse #9, turn your light swich to either parking light(2 clicks) or to your headlights(3 clicks) and press the fog light switch, you should hear a click from the fog light relay.

Step 6: The End:
You're now done, if it didnt work, go back and check your connections and everything again, otherwise it works. now you can drive with your fog lights on and have your headlights down, and you can keep the fog lights on when the high beams are on.

Toyota Celica Cold Air Intake

2009-09-05T13:44:00.001+03:00

Cold air intakes create more horsepower because the draw in cooler air away from the engine. Denser air means more power, not to mention getting rid of the poorly designed air box. The CAI I made has a bypass filter in case water reaches the filter. The change in pressure will make the motor breathe from the bypass and prevent hydrolock. The main filter ends up above the mudflap and under the battery and radiator overflow to sheild from water and recieve air from the front damp. The filter is places sideways to draw in more air.

The intake was made from muffeler piping that was crush bent at a car shop near my house. I made it first out of PVC to get an idea of how to bend and cut the metal. PVC piping would be irrational to use seeing how there is now way to mount it and there is only 90 degree bends (hits hood). I told the guy what i was doing and just had him bend the peices, tried it out (had car apart outside his shop), had him bend it a little more, tried it out. He spent maybe 30 minutes working for me.

I get tons of horsepower and noticed the difference as soon as I rooled away from the shop. You can choose not to make it out of PVC first, but it gives the guy at the shop an idea of what you are talking about.

Shopping
PVC
2” diameter PVC piping
2 90° PVC elbow 2” in diameter (female/male)
1 90° PVC long turn elbow 2” in diameter (female/female)
Metal
1 flexible drain coupling (a.k.a. rubber plumbing nipple), 2” to 2”
K&N Filter for bypass

Required for both
1 flexible drain coupling (a.k.a. rubber plumbing nipple), 2” to 2”
K&N Filter

I will have filter numbers as soon as I find the boxes. I have them somewhere. (next couple of days I will have them)

Taking the car apart
Pop the hood and take a good look. It's beautiful. Yea, yea, yea. You will probably do this 10 times before you finish the intake (dont forget you car do the PVC part at home, put it back together, and part of the metal part at the shop, and the other part of the metal part at home.

Battery and Radiator Overflow
These will be taken off constantly. First take disconnect the battery and remove the bar that holds the battery in place as well at the black box. Twist the box aside and take the box out. (Almost everything on the car is a 10mm) Disconnect the hose and unscrew the radiator overflow. Take it right out.

Airbox
The stock airbox comes off some simply any 6 year old could do it. Ther clip comes off from the EFI by hand, 3 screws hold it down to the car inside the airbox, and the ghetto fender intake part falls out when the box is lifted out.

Making the PVC to get an idea
The intake is going to make a 90 degree turn from the EFI, down towards the front of the car, 90 degree, down to the bottom of the car, 90 degree facing the drivers side of the car. The intake actually runs along the side of the battery, but the black box needs to be twisted under the intake or to the side. The long 90 degree PVC will be for the turn that leads downward. Cut the PVC with a hack saw the sizes you need and try it. Its trial and error. Sanding the edges quickly will be required to make them slide together easily. Put the main filter on and make sure everything fits ok. The bypass filter and rubber nipples will be left to when you make it out of metal. For now, hold it up to the EFI.

Making it out of Metal
The intake will be made from 2.25 inch muffeler piping. A rubber nipple will need the be cut in half the attach the intake to the EFI Flush. The bypass filter will go anywhere above the batter facing the right. To connect it, another rubber nipple with actually seperat the intake into two peices. I drilled 4 tiny holes in the side of it and a big one to attach the filter attachment (you'll easily see when looking at the filter and attachment that came with it...I'll get a photo up). Show the bodyshop the PVC you made and have them bend and cut the first peice with the 90 degree. The ends will be needed to be expanded a little to fit with the rubber nipples (they know what to do...this was the first time anyone at the shop even done anything like this). Than make the down peice- fowards a little, long bend, down a little 90 degree bend to the drivers side. Looking at the PVC makes this process so much easier at the body shop. Don't forget that the ends will be needed to be expanded to fit.

Attatching it to something
I had the body shop weld a peice (a flat rod bent 90 degrees in half hotdogt way) that went from the intake to under the plastic the the battery went on. They drilled a hole in it and bolted it right there (a bolt already goes there so its perfect!). I had to take it out and do some grinding to that peice to make it flat at the end so the battery can sit on it. Ill get a pic up soon.

The End
Enjoy your intake. It was fairly simple to make and was also fairly cheap. It creates tons of power and makes the car not so restrictive and sluggish. Its better than trying to buy one because it has a bypass filter saving your enging from blowing. There is no cold air intake made for this car.

How to Install Aftermarket Gauges on Toyota Celica

2009-09-05T13:43:00.001+03:00

The gauges I used are AutoGage’s mechanical 3-gauge cluster set. They are 2 1/16” in diameter. I suggest that only the 2 1/16” gauges are used because there is a lack of space in the center cluster. The cosmetics of the gauges don’t matter (white face, black face, chrome trim, black trim). The installation process will take approximately a whole day (at most, two days). One day can be used to make the Plexiglas panel and the other day can be used to install the gauges and fittings.

Tools needed:

Dremel
Dremel reinforced cutting wheel
Dremel sander
Sandpaper
Wrench set
Ratchet set

Materials:

AutoGage or AutoMeter mechanical gauges
Acrylic or Plexiglas sheet (about ? mm thin)
Metric adapter set (ex. Sunpro by Actron Metric Adapter Kit #CP7573)

I suggest reading the instructions that came with the gauges first. This is just a write-up by some kid who lost his instructions the very first day, and had to guess everything out.

Step 1: Cutting the gauge panel.
This is a relatively simple step. All you have to do is print out the pattern below, trace it onto the Plexiglas or acrylic sheet, and cut it with the Dremel.

Use the gauge panel that came with the gauges to trace the circles. Make sure all the gauges can fit snug into each hole. They need to be snug enough not to fall out and loose enough to be pushed in easily. Use the Dremel sander and sandpaper to smooth out any rough edges. If the panel doesn’t fit properly, do what you can to make it fit. Cut slits, sand away, etc.

Step 2: Fitting the gauge panel.
This is also a relatively simple step. Remove the center console trim by first removing the shifter trim and unscrewing two screws at the base of the center console trim. There are five tabs that hold the center console trim in place (3 on top, 2 on each side). The tabs on the gauge panel will fit into 2 crevasses under the bottom two screws of the radio assembly. They should fit snuggly. Otherwise, make them fit snuggly.

Step 3: Installing the gauge lines.
You do not have to drill another hole in the firewall. THERE SHOULD BE NO DRILLING INVOLVED! Under the dash above the steering column there is a hole already. A brass fitting conceals it. Stick your finger behind the brass fitting, and you will feel a hole. The hole leads to the engine bay where it resides under the ignition module. Snake the nylon oil and copper temperature lines to this hole. Make sure that you are able to step on the accelerator pedal without the lines interfering.

Step 4: Installing the gauges.
This step is explained in the instructions. I’m only going to go over some key points.

Put the gauges into the gauge panel first. It may be a bit tricky to get the wiring and hosing done, but it’s possible
Do not make sharp bends with the nylon or copper tubing.
The factory oil sensor is 27mm. If you have a 27mm socket, use it. Otherwise, be careful not to break the sensor off.
Be sure to tighten all bushings on the oil line before starting the car.
The water temperature sensor fitting isn’t included in the kit. You’ll have to have one custom-made. I placed mine on the water outlet housing where Toyota installed two 17mm plugs. I just removed one of the 17mm plugs, and place my temperature probe there. You can also design a T-fitting for the upper radiator hose.
When wiring the light for the water temperature sensor, reverse the polarities. That means, hook the power wire on the gauge to a ground wire on the car and the ground wire on the gauge to a power wire on the car. This is because the copper tubing on the water temperature line acts like a ground. If you don’t do this, expect blowing a 15A fuse.
The voltmeter is hooked up to my cigarette lighter.
Lighting wiring in my car as follows:
One +/- hooked up to the cigarette lighter light.
2 +/- hooked up to the ashtray light.

Step 5: Double check.
Check to see that all lines are secure and fitted. Make sure there are no exposed electrical wires. Once you are sure, it’s time to fit the gauge panel into the dash. The two tabs will rest between the bottom two radio screws and above the center console trim tabs. It will be tricky to secure the gauge panel there, so if problems arise, use either some school glue or some tape (for temporary purposes). You won’t need to use tape or glue, but if you do, experiment at your own risk. The gauge panel should hold in place once the center console trim is fastened. If not, then check to see if the Plexiglas or acrylic is too thick. Other than that, you're done. Enjoy knowing how your engine behaves. Don't get too distracted.

How to Advance Your Ignition Timing on Toyota Celica

2009-09-05T13:40:00.002+03:00

This is applicable for all Celicas. The test car used is a 1991 Toyota Celica GT with the 5S-FE engine. Other's may be similar in results. I cannot be held responsible for any damage that occurs to the engine or the car while this procedure is followed. Everything is explained to the best of the author's knowledge. Refer to a Celica manual for more infomation about ignition timing.

Intro: Factory timing for all 90-93 normally aspirated Celicas (ST, GT, and GT-S) is 10? before top dead center (BTDC). This means when the crankshaft angle of the number one cylinder reaches 10?, the spark plug will fire. It fires before it reaches top dead center (TDC) because the flame front takes time to fully combust and push the piston downward.

Retarded timing: If the ignition timing on a car is retarded, then less power is made because the air/fuel mixture doesn't completely combust during the compression/combustion cycle. The flame front completely combusts after the piston has started its power stroke. This results in a loss of power.

Advanced timing: If the ignition timing on a car is advanced (to a certain degree), slightly more power is made because the air/fuel mixture is given time to fully combust and to allow the plug spark to travel. When the air/fuel mixture completes combustion, there is enough power created to slam the piston downward.

Over-advanced timing: If an improper grade of fuel is used combined with an over-advanced timing setting, the effects of detonation can damage the engine. Detonation is when the air/fuel mixture combusts too early or too quickly during the compression stroke. The flame front collides with the upward-stroking piston. Pressure in the cylinder becomes increasingly high. Temperature rises to extremely dangerous levels. This results in engine damage.

Octane Fact: The recommended fuel grade for all the normally aspirated Celicas is 87 octane. Everyone should know that octane is a knock-inhibitor. What octane does is slow down the combustion process. So, it burns slower giving the piston time to compress the mixture and the spark to travel. The power comes from the full combustion of the air/fuel mixture. Higher octane gas + advance timing = more power. I read somewhere about a guy with an N/A Supra who advanced his timing to 25? BTDC and used 120 octane gas. He claims to have made an extra 100 WHP. I find it hard to believe. The power curve for ignition timing is like a parabola: only at one single point will there be a peak power position for both torque and horsepower.

How do I advance my timing?

First, obtain the necessary tools.

A timing light
12 mm socket
A small piece of wire or paper clip

Make sure your car is at operating temperature. You cannot check the timing correctly if your car has been sitting outside cooling down all day. It must be at operating temperature.

Step 1: Jump terminals
Locate the DIAGNOSIS plug. It's a gray box on the driver’s side by the windshield wiper motor. Open it up, and jump the TE1 and E1 terminals with the wire or paper clip. You'll know when it's jumped when you turn the key to the ON position, and the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT is flashing the "NO TROUBLES" code (1 flash, pause, 1 flash, pause, 1 flash, pause, etc).

Step 2: Hook up the timing light
The timing light has instructions. Read them. Otherwise, listen to me. Red clip goes on positive side of battery; black goes on negative side. That black clippy-thingy goes on the number 1 spark plug wire. Simple.

Step 3: Checking the base timing
Now, you have the terminals jumped and the timing light hooked up. Start the car. The car should sound like it's lugging and the idle should be lower than normal. This means you've jumped it correctly. Locate your underdrive pulley. There are timing notches above the pulley. Point and "shoot" the timing gun at the pulley and notches. You will see what your base timing is currently set at. Make sure you’re viewing the notches dead on and not at an angle. Stand above the engine or to the left on the passenger side to have a dead center straight-on view of the crankshaft pulley and the timing notches.

Step 4: Adjusting
Take the 12mm socket and loosen the holding bolt on the distributor. You can do this while the engine is running as long as you don't pull the distributor out (duh!). Just loosen it enough so that you can move the distributor. Rotate the distributor upward (clockwise) to advance timing; rotate it downward (counter clockwise) to retard timing. Keep using the timing gun to see where you've adjusting the timing to.
Henry’s Corner. I’ve done various degree setting to see what is the best and most efficient degree to set the ignition timing at. I was running with 93 octane for each test.

25?+ BTDC: Only good on a cold winter day. Otherwise, crappy idle.
20? BTDC: A little better than 25? BTDC. There's still some inconsistency in the idling, but it's not serious.
17?-19? BTDC: I haven’t tried it yet. Feel free to tell me the results.
16? BTDC: Pretty good for now. That’s what I have it set at as of December 20, 2000.
12?-15? BTDC: I didn’t have any problems, but I wanted to advance it to 16? BTDC to see how far I could push it.
11? BTDC: Seems just too close to 10? BTDC for any kind of change.
10? BTDC: That’s factory setting. I’m tired of factory. I need change.
7? BTDC: Stupid, Henry; that’s retarding your timing.

I cannot confirm 100% why crappy idle occurs. I said it was due to detonation and the knock sensor was picking up the readings. But there’s a problem: 1990-91 5S-FE’s didn’t have knock sensors… at least that’s what I read. Also, I started to tap on my engine with a hammer, and the timing didn’t retard. Despite that, for some reason when I set the timing to 20?-25?+ BTDC, the timing just retards on it’s own like there was a knock sensor doing its job. I did check my plugs for the effects of detonation and there was no damage at all.
My friend told me that the ECU knows that the base timing is 10? BTDC, and it will try to retard the timing to 10?. Sounds right, but I have evidence that disproves the theory: I'm at 16? BTDC and my car isn't experiencing bad idle.

Step 5: Finishing up
When you've set the timing to where you like it, tighten the 12mm bolt, and turn off the car. Remove the jumper wire. You may start the car again to see what the "adjusted" timing is. Then, remove the timing gun.

Is this mod worth it?
If and only if you're trying to squeeze every bit of power from your car and you're willing to use a higher grade of gas to do it. I can afford to use a higher grade of gas. I know some people can't, so it may not be worth it to them.
How much of a power gain should I expect?
Hopefully, you gain some mad horsepower so you can beat Civic Si's, but I doubt that'll be the case. I read that adding 1? of advance produces 2 horsepower to the wheels. Of course, this is only a guideline, and it varies from car to car.

Toyota Celica DIY Intake

2009-09-05T13:37:00.002+03:00

“Due to popular demand, I have devised instructions on how to make your own inexpensive ‘cool air intake’ from items you can find at your local home improvement store and auto store. I’d like to personally thank ‘The SpoonKing’ for giving me this idea. He, too, deserves credit. Thank you, SpoonKing.”
- Henry

The intake instructions were designed for 5S-FE engines. The test car was Henry's 1991 Celica GT Coupe. The 94+ Celica models with the 5S-FE can use these instructions, but be sure to re-measure the sizings

Materials:
1. 2” diameter PVC piping
2. 2 90° PVC elbow 2” in diameter (female/male) (part# C4807-2)
3. 1 90° PVC long turn elbow 2” in diameter (female/female) (part# C4807-LT)
Note: “Male” on the elbow means there is no flange. “Female” means there is a flange that connects a PVC pipe to another PVC pipe.
4. 1 flexible drain coupling (a.k.a. rubber plumbing nipple), 2” to 2” (part# P1056-22)
5. PVC cement (I used the Heavy Duty PVC cement)
6. PVC saw (optional)
7. 1 universal K&N cone-style filter. Be sure to get one with a 2?” nipple flange and must be no longer than 7” in length.
8. Dupli-Color Engine Paint (or any kind of paint that will withstand engine bay heat)
9. Heat reflecting wrapping (recommended)

Tools:
1. A Dremel tool w/ bits
2. Ratchet set
3. Drill

NOTE: PVC is a form of plastic. Under the conditions in the engine bay, it will not melt. Instead, it will heat up fairly quickly. Therefore, it is not only wise but recommended that heat-deflecting paint is used and/or heat reflecting wrap. If you are still skeptical about the intake melting, let me [Henry] tell you something. I live in Texas where the summers are extremely hot with temperatures that reach 100+°F. To make it worse, I drive a black car. My intake is still intact.

Table of Contents:
Step 1: Getting the materials.
Step 2: Putting the simple stuff together first.
Step 3: Cutting and sizing.
Step 4: Removing the factory intake.
Step 5: Removing stuff to get the intake in.
Step 6: Testing placement and size of the new intake.
Step 7: Making the hole for the air temperature sensor.
Step 8: Putting the intake together and painting it.
Step 9: Finishing up.

Step 1: “Let’s go shopping.” (Getting the materials):
Items 1-6 can be purchased at a home improvement store (i.e. Home Depot, Lowe’s). Look for them in the plumbing section. Items 7-9 can be purchased at an automotive store (i.e. AutoZone). The K&N filter will have to be special ordered since many auto stores do not have universals on the shelves. It is very important that the filter you order is no longer than 7 inches in length and must have a 2.5-inch nipple. They should have a K&N catalog you can look at. The filter you are looking for is in the “universal” section of the catalog.

NOTE: You have the option of using 3-inch PVC piping like I opted to use. If you decide to use 3 inch piping, all the PVC bends must be 3 inches as well. The plumbing nipple used must be a “3-inch to 2-inch” style. One of the following K&N filters will suffice if you plan on using 3-inch PVC piping:
a. Part# RU-2710 w/ rubber end, 6?” in length
b. Part# RC-2710 w/ chrome end, 6?” in length (this is the one I used)
c. Part# RU-3550 w/ rubber end, 5?” in length
d. Part# RU-3130 w/ rubber end, 7” in length (this is the one I recommend)

WARNING: If you use 3-inch PVC piping, the fuse box must be relocated to where the OEM air box/filter housing used to be. Relocation is simply done by moving and/or twisting the box into its place. DO NOT CUT ANY WIRING!!! If you plan on relocating the fusebox, be sure to fasten or brace it to something. If you do not, it will get banged around in the space provided.

Step 2: “No, it’s not time to cut stuff.” (Putting the simple stuff together first):
Items needed in this step:
· 2 90° PVC elbows 2” in diameter (female/male) (item #2)
· Rubber plumbing nipple (2” to 2”) (item #4)
· K&N filter (item #7)

Take a female/male PVC elbow (item #2) and the plumbing nipple (item #4) and connect the nipple to the male end of the PVC elbow. Be sure to unscrew the clamp on the nipple first. It will make things a lot easier. This assembly connects to the throttle body.
Take the other female/male PVC elbow (item #2) and the K&N filter (item #7) and connect the filter to the male end of the PVC elbow. Unscrew the clamp here, as well, to make the job easier. Do not tighten the filter on yet. You will have to remove the filter to paint it in a later step. This is just for testing purposes. Also, a very important note, keep the filter assembly in a place free of dirt; store it in the plastic wrapping it came with. It will be a while during the procedure before it is used again.

Step 3: “This is where shop class is going to pay off.” (Cutting and sizing):
Items needed in this step:
· 2-inch diameter PVC piping (item #1)
· PVC saw (item #6)

Tools needed in this step:
· Dremel

NOTE: If you have a Dremel tool, you may use that. A PVC saw will cut the piping more evenly. A hacksaw will can be used for the job as well. Just use anything that will cut PVC piping.

PRECAUTION: Please use safety goggles. There will be a lot of PVC dust when using a Dremel. If you must, use a mask.
The intake consists of two piping sections: the main pipe (the pipe which runs front to back) and the “downpipe” (the pipe which runs up and down). The main pipe is 13? in. in length (±0.1 inches). The “downpipe” is 6? in. in length (±0.1 inches).

Measurements:
Main pipe: 13? in. (± 0.1 inches)
Downpipe: 6? in. (± 0.1 inches)

You are allowed plus or minus 0.1 inches error, hence, ±0.1 inches. This is not a must; it is a guideline. Sand the edges to remove any nicks and excess PVC strings. You want them smoothed out and not rough.
When you are done making the two pipes, wash them. Remove any PVC dust from the inside with a towel. Then, set them aside for later. You will need to drill a hole in the main pipe a few steps down.

Step 4: “To my old intake: We had some great times together. It was nice knowing you.” (Removing the factory intake):
Tools needed in this step:
· Ratchet
· 10mm head

NOTE: Do not destroy the stock intake. You may need it in the future.

Locate the clamp near the throttle body holding the intake hose in place. Loosen that screw. On the air box, there are four clamps holding the filter housing in place. Unclamp the four clamps. Remove the filter out of the box. You will find three bolts holding the bottom of the air box in place. Unscrew and remove those bolts. You can now remove the air box and intake hose. Jiggle it out if you have to. There will be one part of the intake left. It is the tube that gathers cool air from the front (technically, the stock intake is a cool air intake but it has small piping; we’re just upgrading). Remove this later when you remove the battery and coolant tank in the next step.

IMPORTANT: There is a rubber grommet holding the air temperature sensor in place. It is located on the top part of the air box. You will need this rubber grommet. Please save it, and do not destroy the air temperature sensor when removing the old intake.

Step 5: “Henry, the intake won’t fit.” (Removing stuff to get the intake in):
Tools needed in this step:
· Ratchet
· Socket heads

I knew the intake I designed would never fit into my car the way everything was set up. So, I had to remove the bottom panel of my car to get the intake assembly in. Fortunately, I found a better way. By removing the battery, battery tray, and coolant overflow tank, you can get the intake in easier without having to work under the car. The fuse box will have to be moved and relocated temporarily. Since I never removed my battery before, I can’t write a detailed explanation how to do so. But the procedure is very simple. Read a Haynes or a Chilton’s manual if you have to.
Keep in mind when you fit the intake that you do not run the intake in the space where the battery and coolant tank occupy. The intake should run right next to the fuse box. You want the filter to sit beneath the battery and coolant tank.
Also, you can remove the intake tube that was mentioned in the previous step.
I realized that there is a metal piece welded to the frame under the battery tray. Therefore, if the filter is too big to fit through the void, then it must be inserted from under the car. That means having to remove the bottom plastic panel. There are only a few bolts that have to be removed to flex it open and fit the filter through; the entire panel does not have to come off.

Step 6: “Do these pants make my ass look big?” (Testing placement and size of the new intake):
Items needed in this step:
Main pipe
“Downpipe”
All elbows
Filter assembly
Rubber nipple assembly

This is the testing part to see if everything you made fits properly. Take the time to install the components and sections in the engine bay, and be sure to eyeball everything.

1. The rubber nipple assembly attaches to the throttle body.
2. The main pipe connects to the rubber nipple assembly, and runs towards the front of the car.
3. The 90° long bend (female/female) connector (item #3) connects to the main pipe, and runs downward aimed towards the ground.
4. The “downpipe” connects to the 90° long turn (female/female) elbow (item #3).
5. The filter assembly connects to the “downpipe,” and the filter end points towards the front-left corner of the car (see picture below). Check if you can slide the filter assembly between the radiator fan, battery, and transmission. If you can, that’s great. If you can’t, we’ll have to do it the different way. I have my doubts you will not be able to.

If you have to, re-cut and re-measure the piping. By now, I hope you understand what the intake is supposed to look like. It should run towards the front of the car, and then turn downward towards the ground, and then the filter should point towards the front-left corner of car.
This is the most important step. You need to memorize how the intake will sit inside the engine bay. Use a permanent marker to make markings on the intake. So when you are assembling the intake, all you have to do is match up the markings. You should have a minimum of 8 markings on the intake.

Step 7.1: “What the hell is an ‘air temperature sensor’?” (Making the hole for the air temperature sensor):
Tools needed in this step:
· Dremel OR
· Drill

You need to make a hole in your main pipe to accompany the air temperature sensor. The hole needs to be large enough so the rubber grommet you saved from the old air box will fit. The hole should be made 3-4 in. from one end of the main pipe and approx. ? in. in diameter. The end with the hole will be closer to the driver/intake manifold/throttle body and away from the front of the car. Also, the hole should be facing the left side of the car away from the engine.

Step 7.2 (optional): "Henry, I'm going to hydrolock with your intake design!" (Making the a hole for a breather filter to serve as a bypass valve):
Tools needed in this step:
· Dremel OR
· Drill

This is for those of you who live in very wet conditions and would like to install an inexpensive bypass valve. Due to the position of the intake, the filter is prone to suck up water in deep puddles. It is best to avoid deep puddles, but in case it is impossible to do so, installing a bypass valve can lessen the effect of hydrolock. The bypass valve is basically a breather filter. This is only a theory and has not been fully tested. The theory behind the idea is simple: when the intake filter is immersed in water, there is a change in pressure, and the air will be sucked through the breather filter instead of the main intake filter. Water is denser than air. If there was no bypass valve, the water would go straight into the engine. With a breather filter, the water is too heavy and air will enter the breather filter.
Drill a hole in the main pipe a few inches away from the air temperature sensor hole (see picture below). Make the hole penny-sized. Install the breather filter after painting.

Step 8: “Michelangelo, eat your heart out.” (Putting the intake together and painting it):
Items needed in this step:
· Dupli-Color Engine paint (item #8)
· PVC cement (item #5)
· Intake parts

This is the longest step because you have to wait for the paint and glue to dry. If you don’t have time to wait, then you might as well start putting everything back together now. At least you’ll know that everything will fit, and that is the most important aspect of this intake: IT NEEDS TO FIT. Make sure again and again you can fit the fully assembled intake inside the bay and that it will go in easily.
Remove the filter from the filter assembly elbow. You don’t need to damage or paint the filter. Make sure all the intake parts are clean and free of PVC dust.
When using PVC cement, please read the precaution on the container. PVC cement is harmful to your health when inhaled. Use it in a well-ventilated area.
Starting with the rubber nipple assembly, apply a thin layer of PVC cement to the inside of the PVC bend female connector. Shove the end of the main pipe with the hole for the temperature sensor into the female connectors. Match up the markings. Be sure to shove it in there real good. Use a rubber mallet if you have to. Next, take the long bend elbow (item #3), and apply a thin layer of PVC cement inside the female flange. Make sure you know which female flange goes downward and which one faces the driver. Apply another thin layer of PVC cement to the other end of the female flange, and shove the “downpipe” inside. Match up the markings, as well. Be sure that they are secure and are shoved in as much as possible. Finally, apply the last layer of PVC cement inside the female end of the filter elbow (currently w/ no filter on it), and shove the female flange onto the “downpipe.” Match up the markings.
All the connections should be secure and all the markings should match up. Allow the glue to set and cure.
Painting the intake takes a lot of your time, but it is relatively simple. You have the option of painting the rubber nipple, like I did, but the paint does not stick well to the rubber. It takes a long time for the paint to dry on the rubber. If you don’t want to paint the nipple, remove it for now, and then put it back on. Apply numerous coats until you don’t see any white and/or any of the markings made with the permanent marker. It needs to be thick enough to shield out the heat. Don’t paint the rubber grommet that holds the air temperature sensor; it’s pointless. And please don’t paint it with the filter on.
Let the paint dry for a few hours or until it is dry to the touch.

Step 9: “Oh my God! Am I done yet?” (Finishing up):
Items need in this step:
· Your completed intake
· K&N filter (item #7)
· The rubber grommet from the old air box

You’re almost done. Make sure the intake is clean on the inside. You don’t want any PVC dust inside the engine. Put the filter back on, and tighten the clamp. Put the rubber grommet in the hole you drilled in the main pipe. If you removed the rubber plumbing nipple, put it back on as well, and tighten the clamp. Install the intake. Hopefully, all your testing paid off. It should by all means fit with simplicity. The rubber nipple should go onto the throttle body with ease (don’t forget to loosen the clamp before doing so); the hole for the air temperature sensor should be facing away from the engine; the intake should go towards the car, skim the fuse box, then make a turn going downwards, and then point towards the front-left corner of the car; and the filter should touch the bottom plastic panel or hover above it.
Put your battery tray and battery back in. If possible, put the fuse box where it is supposed to rest: bolted onto the battery tie-down. Otherwise, position it where the old air box used to be. Tighten the clamp on the rubber nipple that attaches itself to the throttle body. Insert the air temperature sensor inside the hole you made.

Well, guess what? You’re done… or you’re supposed to be done. The intake should’ve cost under $92. Now, if you think this isn’t worth your money, throw away your hard work, and go buy yourself a $210 intake that you didn’t make. I’ve had many people ask me about my intake on the Internet and at autocrosses. I am proud of my intake. I hope you are proud of your intake, too.

Toyota Celica Clear Taillights

2009-09-05T13:27:00.002+03:00

Note: This is based on the construction of taillights for '86 to '89 Celica, but '90 to '93 models are very similar in design and construction.

Materials:

2'x2' transparent acrylic panel. I suggest to buy the more expensive type, Lexan or high impact acrylics, they are easier to work with and more durable.
2'x2' fluorescence lap cover, prismatic panel. Acrylic is more transparent, but more brittle. Styryl is more flexible, but not as transparent. There are a number of different designs to choose from, find one that suits your taste.
Adhesive. I suggest polyurethane glue or high-grade silicone glue. I DON'T recommend the use of "hot" glue. It is reversible, i.e., melts in hot weather, brittle when frozen in cold weather.
Cutting and shaping tools. I used a band saw, Dremel multipro, power sander, and sandpaper.
Clamps. Get all the clamps that you could find, c-clamps, spring clamps, and even cloth clamps, the more the better.
Paint.
Masking tape.
A good dictionary, incase you want to curse the way you have never done before.

Procedure

Removal of taillights from vehicle. Remove the panels around the trunk. Don't forget to remove the hidden screws, some are just hidden with plastic caps, two are hidden under the covers for rear seats retention hooks and one in the cover of the jack access opening. Care should be taken when removing the side panels. The part that contains the speaker grill is attached to car by push-in clips, remove them carefully. Remove the four nuts on each side of light housing. Push the housing out with a constant force, take you time. It may help if you heat up the glue around the housing with a hair dryer, be careful not to crack the light or paint.
Removal of the stock lens. Break and remove the stock lens. Hit it carefully not damage the housing or the inner lenses that you may want to reuse. If you are familiar with Chinese Kung-Fu, hit the lens with a "steel-ball-on-chain" blow, this will damage the surface but not the internals. Remove as much of the glue as possible, impossible to remove all.
Trimming of housing>. Once the stock lens is Removed, trim the protrusions of the housing. There are two such protrusions, one between the signal and stop and one at the far edge on the opposite side. These protrusions are needed to be removed in order for the prismatic lens to fit into the housing.
Shaping of the replacement lenses. Use a piece of transparent acetate sheet (or two pieces taped together so that it is big enough) to trace the shape of the prismatic lens. You can make it anyway you desire, but I cut it such that the lens fits inside the rim and reserving the rim for gluing the clear lens to. Also, I reused the stock red marker, so my prismatic lens ended there. Always be satisfied with your patterns first before cutting the lenses. Repeat this procedure to make your clear outer lens. I made mine bigger than needed and trimmed after glued.
Painting the rims. Cut out another acetate pattern to mark the rim that is to be painted (this is needed on the outer lens only), to hid the glue. Mask off the areas that do not need to be painted. Sand the areas that are to be painted with fine sandpaper, I used 320 grid. Paint the sanded area with a few of coats of paint (I did five coats), the first coats should be as thin as possible (almost nothing). If you start with a heavy coat, the solvent from the paint could damage the acrylics. Also it is a good idea paint the black plastic housing with bright silver paint or chrome paint.
Pre-forming the lenses. Assemble everything together as if you are ready for gluing, but fix things in place with masking tape. Clamp everything in place, putting it in a bucket of hot tap water will make the bending process a little easier. After everything is clamped together, put the whole thing in a bucket of boiling water and disassemble when the water is cooled.
Final assembly. Sand all the surfaces that are to be glued, including the painted surfaces but be careful not to remove the paint. Clean all surfaces and glue together with a generous amount of glue. Hold things in place with clamps and don't touch anything for a day.
Final Shaping. If you made your outer lenses a little bigger as I did, then the final step is to rim the excess off and sand everything to your desire.
Final Notes. Depending on the design of your outer lens, keep in mind that the side marker is attached to the car with two screws. For one of my designs, the outer lens covers the red marker, so I had to drill the holes for the screws.

7 generation T230 Celica bodykits

2009-08-30T10:50:00.001+03:00

Funny 7 generation T230 Celica photos

2009-08-30T10:45:00.001+03:00

Celica 6 generation bodykit

2009-08-30T10:39:00.001+03:00